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#1
August 18th 2002, 02:42
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Rack n Pinion conversion.
Anybody done a rack n pinion conversion on their SuperBeetle? I have a earlier SB but thinking of converting to rack n pinion. Would it be a bolt on or certain body mods required.
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#2
August 19th 2002, 22:34
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Yep can be done
 Easy if your body is off the pan, you have to cut the frame head where the steering damper is and lower that section of the frame head to give the rack clearance. You also have to weld in some captive nuts into the body for the rack to bolt onto. If your car is together and you don't want to split the pan you can cut the majority of the spare tyre well out carefully and weld it back in when youre finished. I guggest you have a detailed look at a rack car and you'll understand what i'm on about.
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#3
August 19th 2002, 22:37
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Oh yeah if you can't find a 1303 rack, the series 1 VW passat rack is virtually the same exept for the mounts. The 1303 with rack steering also doesn't use a steering damper. These cars are much nicer and direct to drive and its well worth the trouble to convert it.
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#4
August 19th 2002, 23:51
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Steve Carter has done exactly that to his 1302. I don't think he made it to these forums yet. He is "Steve C" on the STF and SBO! fourms.
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#5
August 20th 2002, 07:21
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Thanks for the infomation. I hope it will also eliminate the shimies.
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#6
August 20th 2002, 08:00
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I would try and eliminate the shimmies first. Its not connected to the steering box, and you might find you still have them after doing the conversion.. Replace the bushes, check your alignment and wheel balence first...
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#7
August 20th 2002, 09:24
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#8
August 20th 2002, 15:59
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Biggest thing is to balance the wheels ON the car, especially if it has drums on the front. I have found that drum brake cars are a lot more prone to shimmies than discs so therefore its important to balance the wheel and the drum together.
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#9
September 2nd 2002, 01:05
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One option, in this case, is that the wheels can be mounted differently. The wheel will bolt up in four different locations on the drum. Mark a spot by one of the lug stud's hole on the wheel and drum. Move the wheel around and test drive each time to see if it helps. This procedure is easy and sometimes will rid the shakes.
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#10
September 2nd 2002, 18:17
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After replacing the whole lot, I was a bit anoyed to find I still had slight shimmies. They now happen at higher speeds(60/65mph). Strange as I'm now running smaller diameter tyres. Before it was about 45mph. Points to the wheel balance.
Nowhere local to me does 'wheel on car' balancing so that's the next job. Somewhere must. Wheels were bought second hand, so history is dubious. That's the risk you take. It's nowhere near as bad as it was, but still occasionally bugs me. My 2p's worth, Matt
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