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Old August 29th 2009, 13:53
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Beam....

hey guys So I'm going to Be re-building the whole front end on the BJ front beam, Soo my question is do they make Stiffer torsion for the beam??
and where can I get them?
also looking at getting Heim joints for the tie rodends what size is good to use?

thanks
Chris.
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Last edited by chug_A_bug; August 29th 2009 at 14:24.
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Old August 29th 2009, 15:09
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For a car as light as yours I'd recommend fresh stock torsions. Some GR2 shocks or the real stiff gas-adjusts will serve you well. If your suspension is too stiff you will loose your road-holding capabilities. Keep that in mind. As for the tie rod ends.. For a street car, don't bother with Heim joints. They don't like dust. Use stock tie rod ends and get Lanner to make you some heavy duty tie rods.

Alex
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Old August 29th 2009, 19:40
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CB Performance use to carry HD torsion leave kit's, but only have the stock ones now. If you have ride height adjusters on your beam you can "preload" the upper one and get a stiffer ride, and if you don't like it... it's way easier to change back than the whole leaf stack.
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Old September 2nd 2009, 10:25
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Chris,

Alex is right on the money. Stock torsions and good shocks.

In general you want soft suspension and firm valving. Think about it, if the wheel doesn't stay on the ground it's of no use and dangerous. A soft spring insures that tire contact is always maintained. Too stiff a spring and the wheel looses contact and problems arise...especially in corners. Pick up a couple of Carroll Smiths' books, they're gold. I can lend 'em to you if you wish.
In general I find the softer I make the suspension on my rides, the better it rides and handles...maybe It's just the old man in me talking...

Lanner
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Old September 2nd 2009, 11:00
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The general consensus is to keep the standard torsion bars at the front but control the movement with poly bushes and Bilstein (preferred) or Koni Red dampers. Go with the Chapman principle of "soft springing stiff damping".
With regard to heim rod ends use M14 Teflon lined and it may be worthwhile adding boots if it is really dusty. Use M14 12.9 bolts with a plain shank - length cut to suit. Ream out the tapered hole to suit the shank.
I used the original tie rod threaded ends sweated and welded into a new 1/2"x1/8" CHS. It now looks about the right size.

Clive
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Old September 2nd 2009, 23:17
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thanks for the Info guys...
and I'll keep the Books in Mine too lanner, I know when it comes time I'll grab
some tie rods from ya.

Chris.
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Old September 3rd 2009, 00:27
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Regarding the Heim joints, I definitely agree that you should stick with stock ball-joints.

My rally car uses heim joints as replacements for the main control arm bushings in both the front and rear suspension. They wear WAY faster then a stock ball joint. When used on the street, in the summer, I'm seeing 20,000km or less. A single day at Shannonville will finish off a set...and you don't even want to ask about how long they last for gravel or snow rallies.

-Dave
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Old September 3rd 2009, 22:47
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hey Chris,

I have a bran new set of yellow bilstein shocks for T1 balljoint.

I am going to stick with my Bilstein 356 fronts.
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