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  #16  
Old October 24th 2009, 06:28
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Originally Posted by 70Turbobug View Post
Ahh now I understand what you are saying.The coil overs I have from Remmele for the rear are IIRC the 2nd generation ones that are made from Bilstein for Remmele.The front unit is the 1st generation model made from Koni for Remmele.The current model suspension is self produced.The good thing with the rear suspension I have is that I am not limited to the springs that are delivered with it.I can choose from various manufactuerers such as KW or other Bilstein springs.I admit you are the first person I have heard to say there is a better option/improvement to the Remmele coil overs using them with torsion bars.They were designed to eliminate the torsion bars.I have heard many pros and cons for the front uni-ball set up.Not everyone likes it.I will see how the car reacts without the torsion bars first.Thanks for the tip!
A further consideration that should be noted on the uniball set up on the rear is that you will transmit road noise staight into the chassis that might be a little wearing on the senses in a car primarily for the road. From the tyres there will be nothing to moderate the NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) that will be generated by the tyre since all the contacts are now solid metal. At least with torsion bars you will have rubber or more likely polyurethane bushings of various selectable hardnesses to damp out those vibes.

Rest assured, I am not judging what you are doing I'm just trying to expose the bigger picture. Ultimately, the choice must be yours and you ought to have chosen your solution based upon your criteria but with as much information as you can obtain.

Good luck with the build and keep us posted.

Clive
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  #17  
Old October 24th 2009, 09:21
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Originally Posted by NO_H2O View Post
Sounds like you have a great project going. I have been thinking of building a turbo engine much like yours down the road (need to finish y 2.4L N/A first) I was thinking of the Web 119 cam. What made you pick the 86A?
I wanted a cam slightly more agressive than the 119 without losing idle quality.Iīm hoping it will be a bit more snappy and faster on spool up.My original choice was the 163 but the 86a runs much smoother and I believe it is a better cam for a 2 liter.If I was to build a 2.4 turbo I would go with a 163 on a 110LC.

Thanks Clive for the info! I donīt mind a car that is a bit harsh.Itīs a car made for for fun so some comprimises have to be made.My main focus is stability,safety and driveability.Iīll sacrifice some comfort in exchange.I got to drive a Lotus Elise this summer and the carīs handling really impressed me.So easy and precise and stable.Itīs probably not possible, but f I can get near that kind of handling Iīll be happy.
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  #18  
Old November 20th 2009, 12:14
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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A little update on the 2 liter turbo project.Iīm back from vacation and picked up my parts from Remmele.

The heads are also finsished but I have sold them.Instead Remmele is going to do me up a set of CU heads.Iīve decided to go with the CU heads for a couple of reasons.First - more flow,more meat in the chamber and ports along with larger ports.I will be using 45x39 valves and dual springs 130Kg.The exhaust valves will be Mercedes 7mm stem sodium filled.The intake valve is a Remmele valve.Another reason is thereīs more surface to seal for the header in the square port than the oval port.
I will more than likely use the BAS stainless header like Wally.Yes - I am a copy cat in this case.What convinced me is that Wally is now using a GT3076 Turbo and it fits in the same location as the old turbo which was considerably smaller.But Wallyīpersistance and 350HP donīt have anything to do with it

The crank and rods are also here - but no need to show that since they are completely stock - just well balanced.
3.5 kg Flywheel - including surface rust...I need to clean it up
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  #19  
Old November 20th 2009, 13:34
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Good looking parts Mark!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70Turbobug View Post
I will more than likely use the BAS stainless header like Wally....
Thats quite a change in thought Mark! I can remember you critising my BAS header choice wrt strength and diameter...
And I copied it from Sandeep you know.
Well, better well copied than ill made
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  #20  
Old November 20th 2009, 17:13
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Originally Posted by Wally View Post
And I copied it from Sandeep you know.
My bug may be sporting a ducktail with air-air intercooler spring 2010 . I'm pretty sure that 350 HP / GT3076R had nothing to do with it ...

Sandeep
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  #21  
Old November 20th 2009, 17:36
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Right on Sandeep!

I'll trade ya
I'am all fired up to up the stakes some more
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  #22  
Old November 21st 2009, 08:23
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Thanks Wally! I will be sending the heads off next week sometime,they will basically be the version 5 heads that Remmele offers only with sodium filled exhaust valves.If your header hasnīt cracked or any other issues by now,it wonīt in the future either.So 1:0 for you

Armin has also upgraded to a 2.2 liter! Although with a 78mm Demello crank and a Garrett 2871 journal bearing turbo.He made 2 new videos also: this one is with the K26/K27 turbo:http://www.myvideo.de/watch/6952429/...g_Classic_2009 and this one is with the 2871 turbo: http://www.myvideo.de/watch/6952465/...zburgring_2009.
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  #23  
Old November 21st 2009, 09:09
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Originally Posted by 70Turbobug View Post
Thanks Wally! I will be sending the heads off next week sometime,they will basically be the version 5 heads that Remmele offers only with sodium filled exhaust valves.If your header hasnīt cracked or any other issues by now,it wonīt in the future either.So 1:0 for you
Only 1:0 ?
But serieusly, you can also consider the CSP sidewinder header which has stub-pipes, is also stainless and seemed very well made also. I like stub-pipes for a turbo engine.
Furthermore, the equal length IS an advantage with a turbo engine as well. Trust me (4:0 )
Quote:
Armin has also upgraded to a 2.2 liter! Although with a 78mm Demello crank and a Garrett 2871 journal bearing turbo.He made 2 new videos also: this one is with the K26/K27 turbo:http://www.myvideo.de/watch/6952429/...g_Classic_2009 and this one is with the 2871 turbo: http://www.myvideo.de/watch/6952465/...zburgring_2009.
Cool vid's! Its alomost embarressing to see how he closes in and overtakes all those Porsches... but he should wear a helmet at the track I think (second vid)
He is probably a better track driver than I am, but I think I do better at the strip
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  #24  
Old November 21st 2009, 12:41
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i like that flywheel home made?
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  #25  
Old November 21st 2009, 12:47
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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The CSP header is well made,but also considerably more expensive 560 Euros vs. 880 Euros.The A-1 header is also an option.But the price/performance of the BAS speaks seems better to me.The stub pipes from Armin I will be using are better/stronger than the CSP stubpipes included with their header.Did you make any mods to the header?

Quote:
Cool vid's! Its alomost embarressing to see how he closes in and overtakes all those Porsches... but he should wear a helmet at the track I think (second vid)
He is probably a better track driver than I am, but I think I do better at the strip
Embarrassing for those Porsche drivers for sure and he still only uses 1.3 bar boost.Check out his other vids also where he chases a Ferrari and GT40 around the track.I would have loved to have seen the look on their faces! I wouldnīt say heīs better at the track - he just might be a little crazier than you,though He still drives to and from the track with it and drives it nearly everyday...when heīs not driving his 2 liter type 4 turbo 912.
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  #26  
Old November 21st 2009, 12:55
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Originally Posted by bow View Post
i like that flywheel home made?
Thanks,no itīs just an ordinary 215mm flywheel that has been machined.Many remove material further inward or machine holes between the clutch surface area and the flange.That doesnīt help so much imho since the weight on the outside of the clutch surface area has more gyroscopic effect and inertia than further inboard.Thatīs why I had outer area machined.Thatīs nothing new though - there are a few tuners here in Germany who have been doing this for many years.
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  #27  
Old November 21st 2009, 13:47
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Originally Posted by 70Turbobug View Post
Many remove material further inward or machine holes between the clutch surface area and the flange.That doesnīt help so much imho since the weight on the outside of the clutch surface area has more gyroscopic effect and inertia than further inboard.Thatīs why I had outer area machined.
Good thinking! making the rotating mass lesser on a turbo engine might help with spool-up as it revs up quicker.
Light-weight pistons and rods help as well in that train of thought.

Brave of Armin to run on the track with 1,3 bar!
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  #28  
Old November 22nd 2009, 02:51
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hmm food for thought thanks! maybe i can find someone around here who can do it! wishful thinking im sure
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  #29  
Old November 22nd 2009, 08:52
70Turbobug 70Turbobug is offline
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Good thinking! making the rotating mass lesser on a turbo engine might help with spool-up as it revs up quicker.
Light-weight pistons and rods help as well in that train of thought.
Light rods and pistons would surely make it rev even quicker for sure.That might be an option later on.For now I will use the stock rods with Raceware bolts.

Quote:
Brave of Armin to run on the track with 1,3 bar!
He had ran up to 1.8 bar in a long distance race once without knowing it.The boost gauge still showed around 1.3 bar.Later he found a small hole in the wastegate senseline.All other gauges showed normal operating temps - i.e. CHT,oil temp and afr...and still drove home after the race from the A-1 ring back to Ulm 400km IIRC...
with stock cast bus pistons!
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  #30  
Old November 22nd 2009, 09:18
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Originally Posted by 70Turbobug View Post
- he just might be a little crazier than you,though
Errr, make that a LOT crazier
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