'56 rag with a twist

[fahrvergnugen]

Hi Clive,

I did not calculate things, its just try and error and some eye-ball engineering.

Keep us posted on your experiance with the MC"s

Paul.

[aartjan]

Originally Posted by evilC

Why do you have both? You ought to only need one particularly for a road car? The balance bar set up will give a huge variation in bias on its own.

Clive

Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml

[fahrvergnugen]

Originally Posted by aartjan

Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml

Thanks Aart-Jan, thats good reading.

[fahrvergnugen]

Today I started on making the anti rollbar brackets, This anti rollbar started it's live on a pink "killer Kitty" opel.




Paul.

[spannermanager]

Guys, its not wise to mess with expensive changes in cylinder sizes from just pedal 'feel' alone without running the pads in on the fly for a good bit, it can make a huge improvement to the pedal height and save you chasing your tail, frame type sliding calipers need a lot of running in, personally, a mechanical balance bar is far preferable to hydro valves which also affect pedal feel, i don't like these and avoid them like the plaque, as Clive says, you shouldn't need both.

[fahrvergnugen]

First fitment test of the anti-rollbar, I think it needs a little modifications.



Paul.

[Wally]

Looking good again! Sway bars can be thicker then you think, so these may just be 'right'
Maybe turn-around that tack welded bracket 180 degrees so you have more free room for the bar to move?

[evilC]

Originally Posted by aartjan

Don't they complement one another? With the balance bar you set-up the 'static' distribution and by using the proportioning valve you set-up the 'dynamic' distribution for a different characteristic at higher pressure / deceleration levels. Thus, better enabling you to approach the 'ideal' at given conditions?!

When searching for a reference picture, I found some clear text about it: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...g_valves.shtml

I don't deny that the two could complimenty each other but I doubt whether many on here have the ability to be able to fine tune the braking characteristics to optimise retardation, hence my reference to road car where the load changes would merit constant fiddling and tinkering in a desparate effort to get the best retardation. I'm a strong advocate of the KISS principle and adding in too many variables and adjustments that are beyond the simple running of a vehicle detracts severly from enjoyment.

[70Turbobug]

Originally Posted by fahrvergnugen

Thanx, I have a bias balancebar that can be adjusted with this cable and I have a 7 stage reduce valve on the back brakes. The correct setting must be there somewhere

If you plan on going to the track regularly,then I´m sure you´ll find the right setting for just about any condition.I have 911 carerra 4-pot monoblocks up front and the 911 discs. In the back I have the standard 944 floating calipers and discs (temporarily).The proportioning valve alone should be enough for my intentions,at least for starters.I also have a 944 master cylinder,but may change it for a better more modern master cylinder.

[fahrvergnugen]

Originally Posted by Wally

Looking good again! Sway bars can be thicker then you think, so these may just be 'right'
Maybe turn-around that tack welded bracket 180 degrees so you have more free room for the bar to move?

Thanks Wally,

I am thinking of turning it 90 degrees, this way the uniball kan move freely. I moved the a-arm up and down and the sway bar does not hit a thing.

[fahrvergnugen]

Originally Posted by 70Turbobug

If you plan on going to the track regularly,then I´m sure you´ll find the right setting for just about any condition.I have 911 carerra 4-pot monoblocks up front and the 911 discs. In the back I have the standard 944 floating calipers and discs (temporarily).The proportioning valve alone should be enough for my intentions,at least for starters.I also have a 944 master cylinder,but may change it for a better more modern master cylinder.

It's gonna be used on road, track and 1/4 mile. if I am not sure about the settings I still have the option to set the valve wide open.

Paul.

[fahrvergnugen]

Did some sway-bar work today
Welded the new sway-bar brackets to the upper front axle tube, narrowed the tube to the chassis head width and closed the end of the tube, this way I have some strenght in the brackets and still have the original body mounts.



Test with 90deg. turned uniball.


The 90deg. turned uniball works great, so I made a new bracket (needs some more welding).



Put the grommet in and did a new test. The movement I can make without hitting anything is much bigger as the movement the shockabsorber can make.



Paul.

[fahrvergnugen]

Bought myself a nice donor body, this '58 Will speed things up 8)


Paul.

[fahrvergnugen]

Right side of the sway bar is now ready too.



To make sure all the fittings of the fuel line are ok, I checked them with some air pressure.


On original oval has special floormat fasteners, so I welded these back on the floor.



Paul.

[fahrvergnugen]

Picked up the '58 donor for the oval today.



Looking good.





And a bus full of rust free '58 goodies


It's almost a shame to cut this to pieces, but it will happen. :twisted:

Paul.