Suby-conversion advice?

73notch · #1 January 30th 2006, 01:03

im sure all the chevys there weigh double or more than your bug too.

Axl · #2 January 30th 2006, 01:30

True enough! But they are still a blast to drive (especially the 404HP Sierra pickup I had in the shop the other day!)

tom'72 · #3 January 31st 2006, 17:22

400hp in a bug is not in the same ballpark as 400hp in a Chevvy. Without boost (around 215hp) my bug is very quick and with the turbo going full blast its plain scary and almost undriveable on the streets.

Axl · #4 January 31st 2006, 22:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by tom'72

400hp in a bug is not in the same ballpark as 400hp in a Chevvy. Without boost (around 215hp) my bug is very quick and with the turbo going full blast its plain scary and almost undriveable on the streets.

So what you are saying is there is such a thing as too much of a good thing?

V.waffe 3 · #5 February 16th 2006, 19:37

Hey Axl,
If you are already going to build a tube frame, why not look into using an entire Subaru drivetrain? AWD Bug would be sweet even if it was a front mount job.

Axl · #6 February 16th 2006, 21:26

I thought about it , but I would want to keep the engine in the back , and I don't know about making it all work . I think I will keeo it as I originally planned .Axl .

Mikey · #7 February 21st 2006, 01:03

I have a few ideas I'd like to toss around for getting my coolant from the front to the back. Ahem...

1. Run round tubing inside the main tunnel. Send and return. Pro- Neat/cleaner look, practical since everything else is in the tunnel Con- Tight space, and I havn't figure out a good way around the rear torsion.
2. Run one pipe inside the tunnel and one on the passenger side. (right next the tunnel) Pro- Not as clean, but clean. Con- A big hump on the passenger side of the tunnel, and the rear torsion.
3. Square OR round tubing under the car. Pro- More room than the tunnel. Con- Might limit ground clearance, and I'm a little uneasy about the pipes under the car.
4. Heater channels. Pro- Clean! I can check for rust while I've got them open. Con- A lot more work.

I'm thinking either 1-1/2 or 1-3/4 diameter. The radiator inlet and outlet are 1-3/4. The engine I don't have yet. I can always get an adaptor to a smaller diameter for the rad or weld a smaller diameter pipe on it. (I love TIG ) As for material, Aluminum, Stainless, and Carbon Steel are all options. But the cost might be a limiting factor. I have the capibility of welding all. I kinda want to say away from copper. Question... Would a smaller diameter pipe put a strain on the water pump by restricting the volume of water it can move? I'm an aircooled guy.

I'm sure I missed a few pros and a cons, But I've just gone blank on some of them. And please excuse all spelling errors.

Let me know guys. I'd sure love to have another perspective on this.

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