Building a German Look - Thoughts in one place

[CoolT1]

So after way to many years of half starts, partial; starts and no starts I figured it was time to get a single plan sorted and actually collect the parts and build a GermanLook Bug.

The Plan is quite simple - Get a VW Bug, make it look cool, go fast, handle well and be reliable.

Specs I think I am after :

Pre 1975 Super Bug - Curved Screen
Subaru Powered - 2.5L Turbo
Subaru Transmission - 5 Speed - Subaru Gears
Brakes - Either SubaBrakes or Porsche
Suspension - Coil Overs
Wheels - I really want some 3P Hartmann Porsche Twists but I don't think the budget will allow it so will probably settle for some Twists.
Seats - Recaro or similar
Electrical - Motec M1 with C Series Dash and PDM's as required
Roll Cage - 6 Point

I think that should do it as a start point , plan is to collect ideas and input for the rest of this year and kick it off in 2021 with the aim of Auto Cross before 2022 .

Don't know much about street cars at all been in offroad world my entire life but the idea of building a German Look has been bouncing for many many years and all this CVD 19 junk has moved it up the list of priorities. I have started a few times but always got distracted.

The Look I am after is something like @Steve C has, I have loved his ride since is WasserBoxer days

Looking for feedback and suggestions cause info is way cheaper than parts.

[Steve C]

sounds like a good plan. There are some other good ECUs like Haltech and Link that are a lot cheaper

[CoolT1]

Originally Posted by Steve C

sounds like a good plan. There are some other good ECUs like Haltech and Link that are a lot cheaper

Don't disagree but I like Motec and have a solid relationship with them which has more value than the purchase price difference.

The guys at Westech will do the tune on it once I have it built and Motec will supply a base tune so that side of it is pretty simple.

I will do the loom from scratch which make it easier as I don't have any limitations.

Running a CanBUS makes it very simply to get things working and diag any issues and with DBW and variable boost, traction control, adjustable flow rates all easily controlled by the M1 and PDM's etc the electronics side of it is the least of my concerns.

I have been reading about guys moving the engines forward and may look at that to keep the cam covers inside the body and have found the SubaruGears transmissions to remove a lot of clutch issues as there are so many good options straight off the shelf.

I am thinking dry sump to get some clearance

What size wheels did you end up running on the street ? Are you using V-Force Guards and Tail ? do they still sell them ?

[Steve C]

Hi

Andrew Todd the guy who does the Can Bus emulation modules for Subagears has new products out, I saw it on Facebook under AGT Engineering its a stand alone harness box.

I moved my motor and trans forward about 100 mm and widened the body to fit the cam covers in.

My wet sump is about as low exhaust headers

I'm running 18x8 and 18x10 wheels on the street.

V Force has closed, you can still buy the guards from Vintage Vee Dub Supplies in Sydney.

You could contact Richard Hozl who owned V Force via Facebook about a tail and guards I guess if he still has the moulds

[CoolT1]

Yeah I spoke to Andrew about the CANBUS Emulation and it is great to see what he is doing.

I am thinking I will go dry sump so I get no issues on the track and can increase capacity and cooling easier.

I will keep Vintage in mind when it comes to guards etc.

@Steve C are you running Porsche trailing arms or VW ?

[owdlvr]

Where are you located?

[CoolT1]

Originally Posted by owdlvr

Where are you located?

Down near San Diego CA USA

[Steve C]

Originally Posted by CoolT1

Yeah I spoke to Andrew about the CANBUS Emulation and it is great to see what he is doing.

I am thinking I will go dry sump so I get no issues on the track and can increase capacity and cooling easier.

I will keep Vintage in mind when it comes to guards etc.

@Steve C are you running Porsche trailing arms or VW ?

Im using early alloy 944 arms with 930 CVs, this allowed for a longer drive shaft which helps with CV angles

[DORIGTT]

How'd you get the 930 cvs in the early arms?

[Steve C]

I had a 930 pattern flange welded to my stub axles, this moved the flange inward slightly, its tight but they do fit, couldn't find a photo but I'm fitting drag radial this afternoon so I will try to remember to take a photo when the wheels are off

[Steve C]

some photos of 930 CVs in 944 arms and my modified stub axles

[DORIGTT]

I went the opposite way Steve. I had my 108mm inner flanges modified to accept 100mm CV's so I could use 944T axles.

[Steve C]

Originally Posted by DORIGTT

I went the opposite way Steve. I had my 108mm inner flanges modified to accept 100mm CV's so I could use 944T axles.

I needed the extra operation angle that the 930 CVs give