Anybody used whiteline swaybars ?

[Aurumen]

The mounting points are decent. Not too shabby and better than clamping them to the trailing arms or what-not. The rear is the 27mm and the front is 25mm. They're big Everything bolted right up, no need to weld anything. I recently had to take everything off to adjust my spring plates, and it was pretty easy to take off and put back on.


There are a few pics on my website of the front and rear bars. Go to http://homepage.mac.com/aurumen/PhotoAlbum1.html


Nick

[Sandeep]

RIGHT ON !

Thanks very much for the link Nick. Those pictures explain everything. I LOVE the way that front bar mounts and looks.

I will be ordering my set very soon. I'll have a slightly used Bugpack 3/4" front swaybar with urethane bushings and stainless clamps for sale after Aug 10th

Thanks again Nick.

Sandeep

[Rob]

Hey Nick,

What other mods have you done to the car ?
I see you also have the Konis up front, which setting are you using ?

Looks like you've done a lot of the same mods I have, adjusters, Konis, the swaybars are next on my list...

Did you weld in the floorpans yourself ? was this hard to do ?

Rob.

[Aurumen]

The car is a 73 standard beetle with a brand new 1600 built by me. It had dual weber 44s and merged header with a dynomax muffler. I am running koni's up front set at their softest. I plan on keeping them on that setting...it handles very nicely on that setting on both the street and autocross. The rears are still junk GR2's. Eventually i'll put koni's back there too. My race wheels are 15X8 steel diamond racing wheels with 225/50/15 kumho victoracer V700s. Everything else is pretty stock. My eventual plans are to get a new tranny with quaife LSD. But after building the engine, i'm broke

Floor pans were easy to put in. They just slid in and we welded/bolted them in. They'd be especially easy if your heater channels are in good shape, unlike mine which i had to replace. I dunno how good of a welder you are, but i had never done any welding before. I bought a Lincoln SP 135 plus welder and just started practicing on scrap metal. Pretty easy to learn to mig weld.

Nick

[Rob]

Don't you kill your turing radius with those 15x8 rims ?

Or do they have a very large offset ?
I'm running 15x7 rims and have installed spacer to regain some radius. The tire was hitting the trailing arm...

Rob.

[Aurumen]

My regular rims are empi's...the race wheels are 15X8 with the stock offset. So they stick out considerably beyond the fenders. This is what i wanted for autocross since it gives me a much wider track than stock. So it has the same/similar turning radius as before. And turning is much easier when i'm racing since i can just blip the gas and get the rear end to oversteer me around really tight corners ahhhh...i love power oversteer Even from a 1600.

[Aurumen]

Ya shoulda gone with the race versions at 22 and 27 they rock!! But they should be cool. The install is fairly obvious, but it really helps to have a 2nd pair of hands to hold one end up while you're attaching the other, although I did mine by myself and it's not so bad.

It may help to attach the bar at the shock points first, then attach them to the torsion house/front beam. I did it the opposite way the first time and it was a lot easier when I did it with the shock points first.

Set everything in the middle to start with and then adjust later...and remember, lots of lube on those bushings. I don't use the stuff they send, i use silicon grease (found in the plumbing section at the hardware store). I used it on my other car and it hasn't squeeked in 4 years...so i'm happy.

I kinda got a plethora of different hardware with my kit, so i just picked out the kind i liked best and used those. I had to go to the hardware and pick up one or two more locknuts, i think, but no biggie.

Good luck and let me know how it goes.

Nick

[Sandeep]

Thanks for the heads up Nick.

ACN mentioned that the 20mm adjustable bar should be big enough for the front. I have the BP 19mm bar on the front now and I can drive the crap out of it and no understeer, so far so good. No bar on the rear though ...

As long as I can have oversteer with my 265/35/18 rear boots, I'll be happy.

Only time will tell.

Sandeep

[Aurumen]

Those are some big tires...Got any pics with those on the car? Did you do wider fenders?

I'm running 225/50/15s with a lot more track width than stock (ie, wheels are a lot wider than fenders) for autocross. They have a 50 tread wear rating, so they are VERY STICKY. I have it set pretty neutral with a very very slight oversteer. Then if i hit the hammer in a turn, it will oversteer more. So I don't think you'll have too much problem getting oversteer. I also have both of mine set "loose".

I think you'll enjoy, although i would've recommended you went ahead and got the bigger bars...I drive mine on the street all the time and it isn't very rough or anything.

Good luck

Nick

[Sandeep]

Guess what I'm doing this weekend ...





Got the 20mm Front adjustable and 24mm rear adjusatble bars from ACN. The bars have 4 adjustment points each, and rear mounts have 2 points and front mounts have 3 points so, 12 point adjustable for the front and 8 point adjustable in the rear.

Sweet package.

Tech article to follow.

Sandeep

[Aurumen]

Eh, it's really 4 and 4...the bar mounting point is the only one that counts...it's what changes the "moment arm". But that's still 16 different combinations of front and back. Much better than the 1 you get with most bars

Nick