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  #1  
Old June 2nd 2005, 15:52
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beam?

I'm looking for some advice. I have a ball joint beam that was used in a baja bug, so it's condition is questionable. And I wanted to have a beam with adjusters.

Now the reason for adjusters is not to slam it, as I already have dropped spindles, rather I hope to gain a slight adjustment in hieght, but more importantly I hope to preload the torsion leaves a little. So as I see it there are two ways to go about this.

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First would be to try and find some info to check and see if the one I got is good. Straightness, bearings etc. Then see if I could add puma style adjusters myself (as I don't have the jigs nessicary to add the sway away styled ones). Pumas in this sense are easier to install correctly. The questions I have with this particular method is:

How can I check for straightness?
Can a MIG welder do the job of adding Puma adj?
As from years of use how good are urethane bearing replacements?
Anything else to check?

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Second would be to simple buy the beam new. Yes I understand that the quailty will not be as good as the german ones. But are they good enough? I will not be adding coil overs so I don't believe the strenght of the shock mount is that important, though I would still seam weld these areas.

And the big question who sells a one for what I hope to do, preload the torsion leaves? I've talked to CB and explained I wanted to preload it but the guy I talked to said that I can drop it up to 4", not understanding what I was doing. Which is okay as I believe not a lot of people do this. But, he did clarify that the adjustment was to drop it. Finally got him to say that 'if' I wanted to I could leave it at stock height, this not allowing for much preload without lowering some.

So I was hoping people here may have a new beam with adjusters and can tell me if there is up and own play, or is it solely drop.

The only good side to the new beams is looking like the fact you get new needle bearings.

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So what should I do, new beam or do it myself?

Thanks
Rip
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Old June 5th 2005, 20:08
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pretty please
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Old June 7th 2005, 07:51
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Rip, new needle bearings and bushings are available new - the problem being having the proper tools to change them. By the time to buy the bearings and come up with the tools, or pay somebody else to change them out for you, you'd probably be better off just getting a new beam and starting with that - unless the beam you have is in very good condition and doesn't really need new bearings, just a good clean-up and painting. ALA the trailing arms rotate freely and don't have slop in the beam (installed without springs) and the towers aren't rusted out, and it's straight, it should be OK.
I believe the beams sold with adjusters already installed are set up such that the "full up" position sets the grub screws at the OEM location, and any adjustment goes lower. It sounds like you want to position the adjusters mid-way - so that you can rotate the torsion leaves both above and below the OEM position. For that, I think you'll have to install them yourself.
I also believe 99.9% of the ready made adjustable beams are assembled with Mig welding, from the looks of the welds I've seen. That method should be fine for what you want to do.
Jeff
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Old June 7th 2005, 16:02
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thanks,

may be I could just buy cb's beam and then cut and reweld one of the adjusters. what do you think?

Rip
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Old June 8th 2005, 06:53
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I think it would be easier to buy a new standard beam and install your own adjusters. As you know, you only have to create a slot in the beam where the anchor bolt goes through, then you weld on the adjuster where you want. On the "Puma" beam I have, the adjusters are welded on pretty good. I wouldn't want to have to try and remove one (or both) to re-position.
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Old June 8th 2005, 16:55
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good point thanks
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Old June 8th 2005, 23:58
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Rip,

You can add 'sway away' style adjusters to a beam without a jig. Just do them one at a time and keep checking that every thing is straight. See the 'custom handbook' by Keith Seume for a pictoral guide. It's easier/quicker to do the sway away style than the puma style.

When I narrow/adjust a beam, I usually throw out the stock needle bearings/micarta bearings. I like the urethane inserts (the long ones for both inners and outers). As a plus they have a built in grease seal. You gotta keep them greased well and you will not have to worry about squeeking. I like the 'empi' ones better than the 'bugpack' The bugpack are too stiff and a b**ch to put in sometimes.

Also, I prefer to find a nice used 'old' beam versus the 'new' replacements. Some of the newer beams seem to use a thinner guage sheet metal in some areas.

Good luck.
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