#16
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Alex is helping me with a steel arm version for my uniball setup.. a real standup guy with plenty of good ideas to offer
Spoke to him about the possible water ingress into the torsion tube from the rear wheels spinning and the idea of maybe using the OE springplate bushings as a water stop.. (although an old rag and some sealant would probably do the trick too). He quickly put the idea into 3D in a blink of an eye.. great collaboration Between the monsoon season and high local humidity we get over here, it seems like a good idea
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Be water, my friend.. |
#17
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Yes, it is easiest to use stock TB rubber bushing as a seal, but i dont think it needs any more support.
I plan to make M10 bolt holes small as possible, maybe 10,2 or 10,5mm, so there would be less slop. Also if making from 7075 T6, whole system can be little slimmer, due to the strength of the 7075. How much should there be distance from the housing cover inner surface to arm attachment surface? Springplate is 4mm thick, maybe this is about 5mm? One my finnish vw fellow said that these uniball systems would last longer, if at the inner pivot would have bronze bushing or bearing instead of rubber / urethane bushing, but wonder how rough the ride would be then Last edited by -Alex-; February 11th 2012 at 12:50. |
#18
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Can you take credit cards?
Also is there enough room in the design to countersink the allen bolts fully or even partially? |
#19
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Quote:
The off-road guys (Class 11), have found the four mounting bolts shear out of the Torsion Bar housing, which is why they recommend a section of tubing goes into the TB housing (without bushing) to eliminate the stress on the mounting bolts. I'll be the first to admit yours are far nicer then mine, but this shows the tube we welded to the backside: I suppose the argument that the on-road forces aren't as strong is a somewhat valid one...but add loads of grip such as in a track setting and I suspect you'd be seeing similar load values, just on a more progressive curve. -Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project '58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?! '73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project '68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project '75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom '93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap |
#20
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Sorry,
Only money transfer and paypal There might be room for countersink the allen bolts, but i have too see if its still as strong. |
#21
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Alex, nice results. great work.
I would prefer having a tube without the stock bushing in place, since water ingression is apparent after a while, and it gives better load spread capabilities. I would try to make a rubber flange to put between the inner part and the mounting face. owdlvr, you got it right, off road sees a very high peak load ie when landing after a jump but an easier life cycle ie while sliding on gravel and on road sees a harder life cycle since there is much more grip and track cars have the hardest continuous life cycle due to extreme grip offered at the track Chris
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Aircooled 4ever 1973 1303 going towards GL |
#22
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Would you be able to use the torsion bars with your set up?
Randy
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Unix is a "user friendly" operating system. Its just a little particular who it is friendly to. |
#23
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Quote:
The whole point of these items are to create a pivot when eliminating the Torsion Bars. -Dave
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project '58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?! '73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project '68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project '75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom '93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap |
#24
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Alex, can the inner bearing plate be machined to close off the gap (red arrow) between the inner mounting surface and the rear shock tower?
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Be water, my friend.. |
#25
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Possibly, like this, but i dont know the depth of the gap. Do you prefer this or earlier designed system with OE rubber bushing acting as seal?
Also, do you want to be the system made out of 7075 or 6082/S355? Last edited by -Alex-; February 13th 2012 at 10:34. |
#26
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How much should this dimension be? Its the gap between springplate and stock springplate cover. I am thinking maybe 0,5mm.
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#27
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Alex they look awesome out of interest what the shipping cost to uk PM me if you like, many thanks
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#28
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Shipping costs are:
1. Sweden, Denmark, Germany and Estonia 28 euros 2. Spain, UK, Ireland, Italy, Austria, Greek, Poland, Portugal and France 40 euros. 3. Usa, Kanada, Iceland, Canary Islands, Norway, Switzerland and Russia 56 euros 4. Australia, Japan, China, Hong-kong, Thailand, other Asian destinations and New Zealand 65 euros |
#29
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This kit is specially made for volksmeister, feels kinda tougher than remmele one, but actually lighter because its fully made out of 7075 aluminum.
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#30
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Very nice!
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