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  #46  
Old May 26th 2020, 00:43
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owdlvr owdlvr is offline
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Negative. Never needed to. Two holes in pushrods, problem solved.
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
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  #47  
Old May 26th 2020, 04:21
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I'm sorry but I think you're making a mistake with the holes in the pushrods. All they do is leak oil into the heads. Oil takes the path of least resistance, cousing no oil pressure in the rockers. The only bennefit of your pushrod holes in combination with all the HVX mods would be that the extra oil absorbs heat out of the heads. It does'nt do anything for lubrication of the rockers on the rockershaft and even if the hole is faceing the valve, I don't think it will squirt oil high enough to reach the valvetips either.

An unmodified camfollower only delivers oil to the pushrods when the valve is open. That's only 8% of the cam's 360* rotation.

Have you read Bob Hoovers blog about the HVX mods?

http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2.../hvx-mods.html
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  #48  
Old May 26th 2020, 12:34
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Well, in this case we disagree. There are quite a few top engine builders in the USA who have had the pushrod holes as a "secret", as evidenced when we started talking to some of them about the rocker issue on the Rally Bug. The aim here is to get a little splash oiling up on the rocker tips, it has nothing to do with the rocker shaft.

With the hole as small as it is, evidence shows we are getting oil spray, and as the pushrod rotates it naturally changes where the spray is going. I can absolutely confirm that it will spray and reach the valve tip. Don't forget, with the accusump I can pressurize the entire oil system on my car without starting it it...which means I've been able to see it in action, with the motor not running.

110,000 miles on the Rally Bug motor, rocker shafts have no appreciable wear, so I'd say any fear of removing oil from the shafts via these tiny holes, is not something I'm going to worry about.

I've read all about the Hoover mods, and simply choose not to do them due to relatively low failure rate of the stock system and time/effort to do them.

But fair enough, all I can tell you is that I've been using the mod for thousands of miles, with success. I wouldn't do another dry-sump motor without it. I did it on this wet-sump motor "just because"...not because I think it _needs_ it.
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #49  
Old May 27th 2020, 01:20
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So one of the longest oil lines in the system, and one of the shortest. Equally annoying to build :P After giving it a lot of thought, I decided to run the lines under the running boards. I'm using 5/8" P-Clips, with machined spacers and longer running board bolts. The heater channels are so solid on this car, every running board bolt came out without issue, and the new ones were put in with plenty of anti-seize. It also allows for some clean routing through the front wheelwell area. I probably should have taken some photos...

All of the lines that aren't visible are done with Vibrant Performance stainless braided lines, while the breather lines and front oil cooler lines are done with the black nylon braid. The front oil cooler lines end just after the beam, where I 3D printed some line mounts that affix using zip ties. I've got a union near the brake line fittings that switches the lines into the Stainless steel braid.


My aluminium and titanium bolt order came in...too bad the red bolts are basically pink. I was smart enough to order black though. Details matter...



A friend Bob came over, and we diagnosed the problem with the fuel system (plugged tank outlet), found an issue with a valve guide (a little too tight) and then broke in the motor. So far all is going well! New BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 tires were mounted on the now finished wheels, and that's when the bad news started to come out. It turns out this car, which has had some light accident damage in the front corner, must have had a replacement fender put on the passenger side. I'm kicking myself that I didn't notice, but I have the classic "two different height" issue up front. The front beam also won't go up as high as I'd like it to, so with the rear set exactly the same as the Rally Bug's street setup, the front end is too low and the car has some good amount of rake. I hate rake. At this stage, it's a good excuse for me to replace the front beam which had the classic 90's installation of the red urethane bushings. A new beam might not get me the height that I want, but now that I've driven the car, it will get me the buttery smooth bearings and bushings that I prefer. I may still lower the rear to match (car would definitely look better), but keep in mind that I'm building this to run Classic Car Adventures events...I'll put 25,000 miles on it a year on all type of tarmac surfaces. A little ground clearance is a good thing.




Took it out for it's first drive last night, and then off to the alignment shop this morning. The 911 seats were an excellent choice, the motor feels great (but badly needs a tuning beyond the idle jets), and the alignment was terrible. We've got a baseline now though, and I know where the car has run out of adjustment to get the specs that I need. The rear end will come apart for some increased adjustment in the toe settings, and the front end is going to come apart both for that beam, and to figure out why the camber can't be set where it needs to be on the passenger side. We set the car up with factory alignment settings, though (with the exception of the RR toe). Technically I could be out tonigth tuning the carbs and enjoying the car. But I'm a little too wary of damaging the front left tire or fender, so I'm going to be patient.

On March 26th I rolled into my house with the car on the trailer. As I was unloading it, I set myself a goal of 2 months to turn it into a very mild "GL-looking" build. The plan was simply to swap the wheels, black out the trim, improve the interior, fix any mechanical issues, and toss a 1600dp into it for the summer. I got a little carried away...but I DID meet my two month goal! It's May 26th, and I did drive it home from the alignment shop technically "ready to go".

...now I'm going to improve it :P
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #50  
Old May 27th 2020, 02:34
wouter1303 wouter1303 is offline
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Looks killer! awesome job you did in 2 months time.
I really like the bumper mod with the oil cooler. Something I had in mind too for the future.
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  #51  
Old May 27th 2020, 11:44
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DORIGTT DORIGTT is offline
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Dave,
Are you using 7" wheels front and rear?
Also, i see you're running 205/40 ft, are the rears 225/45?

Last edited by owdlvr; May 27th 2020 at 12:16.
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  #52  
Old May 27th 2020, 12:18
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7" wheels front and rear. 225/45 on the rear, 205/50 on the front (in case the photos don't show)

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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #53  
Old May 27th 2020, 14:20
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Thanks.
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  #54  
Old May 29th 2020, 17:37
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FWIW, one of the best things I did to make my ball-joint beetle handle better was to maximize the amount of camber in the front.

Bugpack (IIRC?) sold these eccentric adjusters that have the hole offset more than stock.
Really makes the thing point-n'-shoot.
Cheap. Easy. Works.

Love your builds.
This last one you killed it..
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  #55  
Old May 30th 2020, 05:35
ian godfrey ian godfrey is offline
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Sometimes the beam can be a bit bent, but also the pan head can suffer from accident damage. Maybe check the frame head is not bent up/down on one side compared to the rear torsion housing, because a quite small twist in the frame head is a lot worse out at the end of the beam
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  #56  
Old May 30th 2020, 14:32
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Car has definitely had an accident in the front right corner, which may be part of the issue. Measurements I took suggest the frame head is good, but it could be the 30yr old cut and welded beam (for narrowing and lowering). I have a new 2" narrowed beam here I can swap in, but that might cause me some other issues. So instead, I re-dimpled the leaves, machined the end of teh upper beam tube and reinstalled...thus getting me the needed camber adjustment up front.

Tire clearance with the driver's side fender is still an issue, and I'm basically resigned to needing to purchase two front fenders for the car. Don't think I'll be rushing to that conclusion, but I also said I was going to do this build on a budget. So...

Lowered the rear end again the other night, but not enough, so it's out to the garage for attempt number three!
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #57  
Old May 31st 2020, 00:43
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Lowered the rear, but not too much. I think I'm happy with it here...but find myself shopping for front fenders. Trying to decide if I should do flared 4cm, or just regular 4cm wider...since I'm only going to do the fronts, probably can't go flared.
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'71 Type 1 - Rally Project
'58 Type 1 - I bought an early!?!
'73 Type 1 - Proper Germanlook project
'68 Type 1 - Interm German 'look' project
'75 Type 1 - Family Heirloom
'93 Chevy 3500 pickup - Cummins Swap
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  #58  
Old June 1st 2020, 06:12
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The car looks great!-the evolution of a Cal-looker
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Last edited by Arnoud; June 3rd 2020 at 00:40.
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  #59  
Old June 2nd 2020, 17:49
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DORIGTT DORIGTT is offline
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Owdlvr,

When you say you machined the ends of the upper tube, does that mean you shortened the tube to 'suck the upper arms in' which increases the amount of available negative camber?

If so, how much shorter did you make it, and how much negative camber are you able to get compared to the standard beam?
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  #60  
Old June 2nd 2020, 21:21
H2OSB H2OSB is offline
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Dave, couple things. First, the car looks A-MAZE-ING! No two ways about it.

Edit: Only one thing. I decided the other part wasn't appropriate for your build thread. I copied and pasted my question directly from here to a PM.
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