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  #1  
Old August 6th 2002, 11:36
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zen zen is offline
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Question to TIV or not to TIV

anyone have ballpark figures on what it takes to get into a type IV engine (yes i know there are MANY variables, just looking ballpark).

assumptions: probably 2.0 liter, powerful driver, not daily, but more than occasional, maybe around 100-140HP, and VERY reliable, i don't want to spend all of my time fixing it, i would rather drive.

i bought a previous show car that claims to be a 1835cc. i don't have any details on the internals. single double-barrel carb. don't really have a clue what HP it is pushing. it is stronger than stock, but not ball's out or anything. debating on selling it (although it was very realiable) and going TIV.

thoughts?

zen
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  #2  
Old August 9th 2002, 20:59
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Considering that he's in your neck of the woods, you might want to give Jake Raby a call at Raby's Aircooled Technology. The man can give you his best suggestion.

And, at the risk of getting hazed, I would also suggest visiting ShopTalk Forums' Type 4rum and rub elbows with these folks ... um ... too.

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Old August 10th 2002, 07:02
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Oliver Knuf Oliver Knuf is offline
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A simple way would be:

Use 94mm x 82mm Mahle B Type 1 pistons together with rebushed rods to 22mm wrist pin size and new cylinders. Heads from Aircooled in 45/38 to get it wild or 41/34 1,8l cores, both ported & polished with a c/r of 8,0:1++ would be good. Crank standard, but balanced, 210mm/215mm flywheel lightened, also balanced, maybe together with crank, gears and pressure plate. Valvetrain components are easy...
Use a Eurorace H-cam (mild) or a Webcam (from mild to wild) 86, 163, 86a or 86b with the recommended lifters from both firms. 40 IDF's with K&N's and some kind of cooling system (POR-style, Sharpbuilt, Type 1 style etc. etc.) would be ok, a free flowing exhaust system, like a Ahnendorp 42mm 4-1 system or a Remmele 140mm 2-pipe muffler with equal-length pipes would be the thing to go with...

Is there anything what you can do else? Besides prepping the gearbox for HP's between 120-140HP and using a good oil cooler system and a electric fuel pump, no!

Take a look on other websites, but the receipt is everytime the same, no big deal and indeed no secret!
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Old August 19th 2002, 18:34
stkmtr stkmtr is offline
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T-4 get ya a t1 and be done

I was here fri. and this site hasn't changed since- You know that I have a 1641 that blows away t4s all day long. It has a huge E100 cam , 040 heads that are40x32 , I cut off my pea-shooters and got me 2- 34 PICT carbs on custom steal manifolds-dude this thing rocks dude-next I'm gonna put NAWS on it-yeah then it take t-4s , Kias and Lecars-yeah
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Old August 21st 2002, 04:13
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Oliver Knuf Oliver Knuf is offline
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Talking ...

How much HP do you expect from such an engine? Do you really think it's a screamer? Sorry...
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  #6  
Old August 21st 2002, 12:49
stkmtr stkmtr is offline
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Dude-Ill pull a plug wire off and whoop me some t4s

I was trying to get some people posting-I figured that might rile a few. I know that if I would have said that on STF in would have been ON. People would be talken about my mothers sexual preferences right now. I know there are some people with strong opinions about T1 vs. T4 out there. I really dont run a t4 right now. I would rather build a waterboxer for my bug - I got to talk to a guy named James that has lotsa expirience w/ wassers. He told me that there is more work than I expected to convert wasser heads to fit a t1,or t4 for that matter. I would love to bump my comp to 10-1 and Drive on the highway all day. I know I can put around town now w/that comp- I drive to Tyler every other weekend (3 hours) and I go at least 90 the entire way. Another cool thought is the Oxyboxer-Cutting off the water jackets and using air cooled p&c and heads. I'll try and find a link to vwmortons -he has a how to section that shows this step by step-SS
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Old August 21st 2002, 13:20
Griznant Griznant is offline
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Oh yeah! Bring it on!


I'll take that T1 golf-cart motor of yours and pull it all over the back 40 with my "tractor" motor T4!!!!


How was that? Enough of a riled response? I'm trying, but Shoptalk being down has thrown me into a state of depression these days.


Actually, to get into a GOOD T4 will run you more than you think. For a decent 2.0L or 2056 I would say that $3k would be a good ballpark. You can always go cheaper or more crazy from there. A friend's 2270 ran him just north of $5k when it was said and done. Yeah, he has some custom stuff on it, but it's all good parts. Just remember that as with anything, the better parts will cost more. You could go cheap and not gain anything over a T1, or you can buy good parts that last over 100k miles with LOADS of torque.

I am putting T4s in everything I have (possibly even my 912). Every time I find one for a deal I pick it up. I was sold on the logic of the T4 design long before I actually rode in a T4 powered car.

Now, I've ridden in a 2270. Talk about usable street power! Wow.



Later,

G
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  #8  
Old August 21st 2002, 19:56
piledriver piledriver is offline
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Expect to spend $3K(us) at LEAST.

Do NOT cheap out without a darn good reason-- saving $100 may cost you $3000+ later.

I'm not sure you could build a T1 to last as long, at a similar performance level, for ANY price.

********************
I know he was just trolling, but it brings up a good base for comparison for folks.

I've now done 2 T4s into the same car (cam/lifter issues caught early enough) a 2.0 and a whipped 1.7, both with 44 IDFs, `cause thats what I have. (The cam/lifter issue is resolved at no charge, stupid,stupid...)

Even the 1.7 with much blowby still takes a fresh 1835/2bbl combo (both cars 71 SB), and is not a hand grenade like the latter, and will in all likelyhood outlive the "new" 1835, even with a >100k miles head start.
(fresh heads, just worn P&l/parts bin motor, my friends NEXT motor will be a T4 or so he says)

With a 2.0/mild cam and the webers---Sorry, but I have driven "mild" to "wild" T1s, and they all sucked by comparison (driveability)... And they were all hand grenades, every one.

If I was going "T1" it would be a 2.1 wbx, altho I would probably stay H2O and graft on the Suby 16v heads, since the bore spacing apparently works. I would probably then get completely contrary and run a 911 fan housing with the radiator in the front, an exhaust duct dumping the air out of the engine compartment.

BTW, Greetings, Griznant.

It's a darn good thing to have "redundant" boards...Each leaning its own way, but with enough crossover to draw much the same crowd.

Oh yeah, and most important:

If you are going Non-stock, maybe even on an "improved" stock motor---

Just buy one of Jake Raby's kits.

Say it after me-
Just buy the kit
Just buy the kit
I'll buy the kit...

Drop the dime NOW and be driving instead of cussing in a few weeks. It's really cheaper, and much easier on ones sanity.

(I didn't, but I'm stock. Would've been cheaper anyway if I had as it turns out.)

I have no affiliation with Jake other than respecting him, having only "talked" to him of the STF.

He's the only guy (other than myself) I would let build MY motors.

Regards
Greg

Last edited by piledriver; August 21st 2002 at 22:45.
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