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  #16  
Old August 10th 2004, 09:53
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cnavarro cnavarro is offline
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There are a few possible outcomes of what could have happened to your friends set of scat birals, all related to the differing coefficients of expansion between the iron liner and aluminum cooling fins. Porsche had issues with the aluminum separating / falling off from the cylinders in high load / extended load situations. Primarily heat soak is your worse enemy. If the cylinder gets too hot, it just gets hotter, and hotter. You get the point. This is a point I've debated with the greatest minds in the 356/912 arena. The conclusion we have come to, is for a stock, or slightly hotter than stock application, birals are great, as they will provide better cooling, head sealing, and generally, longer cylinder life than a comparable cast iron cylinder. On a personal note, I would say to take advantage of the longer cylinder and add some more stroke. As long as the birals hold together (a big IF), they should be able to cool about 180 horses reliably (again from testing data from our own version of birals). A good cooling system will help greatly, say a DTM, to keep the aluminum in it's place!

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
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  #17  
Old August 10th 2004, 10:10
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elroocky elroocky is offline
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okay

So charles,

what's your final conclusion regarding my Iron cast/ alu 100mm kit found, is ift clearly a good kit to work on... or just something to ban and forget...?

david
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  #18  
Old August 10th 2004, 10:18
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cnavarro cnavarro is offline
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I think it's a solid starting point, and with it's nice thick walls, i'd leave it at 100mm. Believe it or not, I have plans on file for a 100mm biral, as we figured that was the so-called limit we thought should be imposed on such a cylinder. I figure something in the 150 HP tune should live 100,000 miles, if done right with those cylinders. Bump it up to 180ish, and you might get 50,000 miles, but with increased maintainence and slightly reduced reliability. For longevity, maybe something in the 100 x 74 range would be good, but a 100 x 71 sounds just as appealing to me, since with the right cam, it will make good torque and be both cheap to build and will last over 100,000 miles in proper tune. What kind of cooling system are you planning on running?

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
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  #19  
Old August 10th 2004, 10:33
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elroocky elroocky is offline
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chart

I using a BAS porsche fan kit, the base is a 914 1800cc I've got actually under cover in my "work shop" the main part to build that engine
that's my chart:

66mm crankshaft counterweight welded @ BAS, reduced and polished rods @ minus 120g, camshaft 316 schleicher, light push rods from webcam , cylinder heads 1800 with original valves with channels just improved and aligned with a set of kN and 44IDF and a 914 flying with from a 914 with weight taken of

that's what I'm thinking about, it should go un a 914 ...
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  #20  
Old August 10th 2004, 15:14
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Wally Wally is offline
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Hey David,
What's with the BAS stuff? I thought you were a Remmele customer
Actually, I quite like the Remmele shroud, as its very shallow just behind the fan, thus bounching more air to the front (2 and 4) cylinders.

Greetings,
Walter
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  #21  
Old August 10th 2004, 16:27
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elroocky elroocky is offline
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nothing special

nothing special with BAS or remmele, this engine I am rebuilding is an very old 1911cc that I've done for on of my bettle in 1993, and i've opened the engine to make a check up after 85000 km because he was burning a sone oil.., and that 100mm kit came over, at this periode remmele was unknowed from me.. and the only parts availeble on the french market was BAS. and actually all the BAS parts I have are still in very good conditions, so with should I not use them again.. I dont need to spend any money on that one.. a cheap rebuilt engin..

david
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  #22  
Old August 12th 2004, 08:44
Ephry73 Ephry73 is offline
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How was the performance of the 1911? i am working on one of those myself right now to put in the back of my Ghia.



E
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  #23  
Old August 12th 2004, 11:38
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elroocky elroocky is offline
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goog 1911cc

well difficult to explain... but good to kick a few water pumper at the red light, the engine was on a 8x33 tranny on a simple vw mainly stock, could manage to take 6500rpm without any problem, and take around 5800rpm on 4th gear on road I think there was around 115/120hp on that engin, and it was very interresting between 2500 and 4800 rpm.. no problem until 60000 K until a valve seat dropped, and around 85000 the seals were week..

that all, but mainly a good engin, I was satisfied..with it

david
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  #24  
Old August 12th 2004, 12:13
Ephry73 Ephry73 is offline
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I was hoping to hear that. That is exactly wha I want out of this engine. I do have a turbo camshaft in it, and hpefully one day get a decent turbocharger in it.


Thanks,



Ephry
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  #25  
Old August 12th 2004, 17:13
mikko k mikko k is offline
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Charles (and othets)

I remember now what happend to my friends set. It was less dramatic, only 1 piston pin locker fell off and the pin hit the cylinder wall and it start to leak. Pistons were sold to some other projekt, they didn't harmed and the broken cylinder were test bored to 4" to see if the set would be usefull that way. We haven't used those ever since. 4" bore makes wall too thin, only about 3mm, if I remember right. Not for daily use.
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