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  #91  
Old August 10th 2012, 23:01
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Flipped the rear cradle and mocked up the gear box. Going to make a solid front mount and also use a mid mount. Pulled my shift rod and found out it was bent. So I ordered up an adjustable end and am going to shorten it by 2". Also started setting up the spool differential. I installed my original ring gear and torqued it down. Then plopped it in the gear box. It seemed too tight after installing the diff cover so I removed a shim out of it. Now it seems pretty good. I measured .015" of play while rotating the diff using this method however I am a little unsure of it as this is the first time I have setup a rear end. Factory settings from the manual say .006"-.010". Any pointers?

Last edited by vw1303; August 10th 2012 at 23:06.
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  #92  
Old August 20th 2012, 12:02
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Gearbox is ready to go. Bearing preload and backlash are set on the spool.

I "deconstructed" my OEM front mount and found the date of manufacture was cast into the piece. I am going to mill down the face and resuse this piece as a solid front mount.
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  #93  
Old August 29th 2012, 12:02
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Solid front mount.

Shortened and adjustable shift rod made with slightly heavier wall tubing than OEM.
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  #94  
Old October 31st 2012, 14:53
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Moved out of the city and into the countryside. No more neighbours complaining about "engines revving" and such. Built a workbench and organized the garage a bit.

Added an GM Intake Air Temp Sensor. Going to see how effective the NACA ducts in the window routed to the intercooler are. The solid mounted engine and gearbox aren't as bad as I thought. Everywhere on the internet said it would rattle my fillings and shake bolts loose but I like it. Less wheel hop more rocking of the engine. Now to take advantage of the country roads around my place. Ft. Langley has some awesome twisties
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  #95  
Old November 3rd 2012, 22:21
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I'm interested in the results of the NACA duct test.
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  #96  
Old November 4th 2012, 02:13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brookester View Post
i'm interested in the results of the naca duct test.
x2
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  #97  
Old November 19th 2012, 23:18
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Did a string alignment to get the car in ballpark alignment.

Was going to install this accusump but stripped a brass ball valve so need get a new one of those,

Went for a few "drives" around the neighbourhood this weekend. Did some logging. Was only making 8psi of boost but wanted to make sure the AFR's
were in check. I will turn up the boost next weekend Intake temperature started out at 14degC and rose to 35degc after 7 minutes of driving. I guess I'm going to have to drive longer to see what the NACA ducts can do for me. Lots of wheelspin too in the wet. Donuts and going sideways are alot of fun with the spool in the rear end.

Also finally got this bad boy together. A VF34 ball bearing turbo from JDM STI's.
These little ball bearing units are very tricky to put together especially when you
dont take them apart. Lucky for me I found one disassembled in a box. This is one of the best "bolt on" turbos you can get for the EJ20, very responsive.
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  #98  
Old November 20th 2012, 02:46
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i got 2 questions for ya.

1: well i need motor mounts in my 1303 as well. i cant decide on what route to go,how are the solid mounts on the street? do they vibrate the car super bad? ive been thinking about getting some solid mounts.

2: how is the spool diff on the street? does one wheel make noise when turning tight turns? i know in your case its not a big deal as i know your wanting to drift with it. but i had to ask. lol

looking awesome as usual. ill be getting my turbo on my WBX soon, your car is a great inspiration. keep up the good work.
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  #99  
Old November 21st 2012, 08:39
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Good to see it out on the street.
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  #100  
Old November 22nd 2012, 18:59
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So here you can see the stock reverse light switch and an M18 Plug I got to block off the reverse light portion of my gearbox when I was moving it forward 2". Turns out the 3mm longer in length was causing me a real headache trying to get the car into reverse. It would move back a few feet then start grinding. Ahh!! I had no idea what to do so I contacted Bruce Tweedle who knows his stuff when it comes to gears and he had heard of a problem like this when someone forgot to install a washer on the reverse light switch.

You can see on the top of the plug I installed that there is some wear in that area. So I was confindent when making a new plug using the orginal plug that it would solve the problem. Turns out it did! I would have had no clue and probably tossed the gearbox. So I am pretty stoked that this problem was cured quite easily. Let this be a heads up for anyone moving there gearbox forward that this plug can be no longer the OE one.
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  #101  
Old December 7th 2012, 00:06
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Put a permit on the beetle and drove to work today. This happened...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJ9emhSuutM
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  #102  
Old December 7th 2012, 02:47
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thats awesome. good to see it running solid.
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  #103  
Old December 9th 2012, 10:38
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Good to see it on the road.
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  #104  
Old January 28th 2013, 18:52
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Modified by steering knuckles for for steering angle. I cut 25mm out of the Porsche 944 knuckles and drilled and reamed a 5/8" hole in them. I noticed with my BMW steering rack it requied alot of input to turn the car. Shortening the steering arm will give quicker response and allow for more steering angle. Before doing this the wheels would point about 35 degrees now the wheel will go almost 50 degrees. I will need to "massage" the inner fenders to make room for all of this steering lock.

Stock knuckle.

Modified knuckle.
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  #105  
Old February 10th 2013, 00:58
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Finally finished my tubular front control arms.

Stock vs. Prototype Tubular

This version allows for 25mm roll centre correction. Made in Chromoly.
Length is adjustable from 0-+50mm wider than stock.
3/4" Chromoly Heim joints at both ends.



More front suspension goodies.

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