Yeah, the J-Sports Bug gave me the idea. It appears they used 1302 arms on that car, prolly class rules for racing :confused: . My 1303 came with the early cast steel arms too, but I nixed them 'cause of weight, unadaptability to Porsche spindles, and having to weld dissimilar metal together (cast steel to forged steel)

I really like this radius arm idea....I think i am going to head the same direction. I dont like the formed arms of my 1303, they seem weaker than the 1302 arms. I think i want to box mine in also and add the "radius" arm in the front.

How did you decide the length of the arm and the location of the hiems?

Ted

I kinda eyeballed it with two broomsticks where the added on strut-rods would be, then used two string lines to line up where the heim joints would go with the control arm pivot points. I wanted to make sure they were in line with each other, so the steering axis wouldn't change as the suspension compacts.

The angle of the pieces I welded on, in relation to the control arms, weren't on purpose. That's just how it came together. The critical part was the bend in the added on pieces. They attach to the control arms with about a 5 degree downward angle, and have about a 12 degree bend upwards, halfway to the end so I would have full travel all the way to some shortened 1303 bump stops without the add on pieces hitting the frame head first.

Unless you're going to add strut-rods on to the stock arms like this, I wouldn't recomend boxing them in for strength. The stock suspension relies on the "twist" that the stock control arms have to keep the sway-bar from binding the whole works up. Without that twist, you'd be replacing sway-bar bushings every month, and would have a hell of a time putting it together because of the binding-up.

Another thing to stress, take your time, measure three times, and don't try this unless you're sure you can do it right, and without compromise.

Yettibone... I read this topic on your front arms a time ago.
And now I'm at the fase of making the last changes on my chassis before painting and I see this topic again i'm maybe also make it someway like yours.

But I'm overlooking it now because I also want to go verry low with my super.

Wiebrand

I understand. :)

However, mine will bottom the struts out (without bump-stops) before the strut-rods hit the frame head, and the sway-bar mounts will drag the ground before the heim-joint channels do.

Pics of my strut tower brace, and Kafer Cup brace pieces. Still haven't finished the bars for the cup brace, and still waiting for some 6" M12 bolts from McMaster to finish the tops of the rear shock towers.

couple mo' pics...

yeti, what are you doing for bumpstops on the rear? i still have yet to do anything and need to. much more difficult with the body on though.

Since I got early alloy arms, I made some from the leftovers of my sawed-off shorter front bumpstops.

Drilled a 1/4 inch hole 1/2 inch deep, tapped it to M8 1.25, stuffed the leftover washers from some stock 944 inner rear control arm bushings into those little rubber acordians, and bolted 'em down.

I know you have later alloy arms on yours, so the pedistal isn't there. Is there some way you could adapt swingaxle bumpstops to work on yours?

Just to throw this out there

http://www.kartek.com/prod-windows/a...sac-601901.jpg

I was thinking of using the Saco shifter box. Cut a hole in the tunnel right behind the stock shifter big enough to fit the box through. That way you could slide the box forward bolt it up then have access to the uni joint. One behind the shifter and the other at the nose cone. The rod inside the box is support at both ends, and because the bushings are brass the shifting should be like ice even though the difference in angles.

Durn! :eek: Pretty slick. Simpler than my rig too.

I used 2 911 bushings and the little brackets they mount in, so mine takes up more space than that one does.

Wish I'd a thought of that. :rolleyes:

The pan is done. I put the engine back on for some pics, and realized the drivetrain will need to tilt back an inch, or less to be right. I'll have to do that with the body on to find out exactly how far though... :rolleyes:

Schweeeeeet. A seeat and some controlls and it will be ready to put on the Dyno in Nov. :agree:

Here's the rear swaybar. Had to use one that was long enough to clear the crossmember, and make my own brackets, and clamps. The endlinks are like the front ones.

I have to do some clearance work at the endlinks before it's ready to go.

Here's my home made Kafer Cup brace. :D

The tubes are hollow T6 aluminum, except for the ends, which were solid T6 'till I turned them down to the tubing's inner diameter, and drilled and tapped them for the fork ends on a lathe. All the chassis connections, the fork ends, and the shock tower pieces are steel.

The front brace was made the same way, but it's all aluminum, 'cept the fork ends.