#1
|
|||
|
|||
preparing a 70 beetle for 300+ hp..
Discarding the already super obvious, like bigger brakes, fuel cell, and upgraded suspension, what else should I be worrying about if I plan on running this kind of power?
Stuff like stress bars, and cages are what i'm after, all the things that can and will help the car be safer, and also more sturdy. Any help would be great, thanx!
__________________
Making my 70 Beetle into a GL |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Look into getting ...
1. Kafer cup style chassis brace. 2. front and rear sway bars. 3. Lower the stance of your car for high speed driving. 4. Rear wing for downforce. 5. ????? P.S. Check out the for sale section for some instant horsepower. Direct port nitrous.
__________________
I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
hi
what engine is it your sticking in there with that much hp? stiff roll bars front rear some serious brakes a real good roll cage some serious rubber to lay the power down.
__________________
neil verdon 66 sqr on irs. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
How about some racing buckets with four or five point harnesses, they always help OH! And what about a fire extinguisher? it might come in handy some time, but lets hope not!
John
__________________
There is no cure for our disease '69 standard ( under the knife) '72 1302 GL ( under the knife and on hold) VolkSport Kfer Gruppe www.VolkSport.net |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
How about checking your life insurance policy. LOL
__________________
I love my money pit, uhm, err, I mean my car. 1969 beetle in the works... 2.0 type 4 DTM... 2004 Suzuki GSX-R 1000 crashed www.volksport.net Volksport Kfer Gruppe |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Keep a spare pack of depends for your passengers
Ron |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I would check all the factory welds and reweld any area that looks suspicious. Im all for buying the Kafer cup brace but you could tie your roll cage (wich i would use 1 1/2in .095 mild steel or chromoly) into the horns if your going to use a rear swaybar look for the type that the bar can be changed and the outer arms remain the same. a bar can be around 80.00 but this gives you the benifit of beign able to change the dia. of the bar to any dia. and its easy to change. But this does require a liitle bit of fab work. I say this because it would suck to get out on the road and find that the sway bar kit you baught from XXX is to small of a dia. with the type im suggesting u could determine the correct dia. (or pretty damn close) to start with. BUT as i have never used the brands you buy from the catalogs in Hot VWs i dont know if they are the correct dia. for your application. hope this helps and sorry for rambling on and on and on and on and LOL
__________________
Michael |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
I have a Ford 2.3T that im gonna put in my ghia that could get that much hp quite easily when my rebuild is done. Ill probably run low boost for around 200hp. Basically Wheel width is a big concern. Wide wheel to get you going and wide wheels to stop. Right now before you get into much suspension roll cage modification I would decide on a set of wheels and tires then design the rest of the cars systems around them. I would also check out the half shafts and make sure they are free of scratches and marks. If no marks I heard it was a good idea to wrap them with electrical tape 2 times to prevent scratches and nicks therefore improving fatigue life of the part a bunch. I would think about redoing the pan and adding in some supports. Remember try to triangulate everything too and never put a bar that might have load on it connect in the center of another bar. Always go to the corners if your making a joint. and try and make some of your roll cage joints end at your suspension mounts. Weld your frame horns and check on your tranny mounts and if you can stand it get solid mounts or at least urethane. Chack out this pic of the wrc focus roll cage. Pretty much every joint end at another joint resulting in full triangulation. http://www.ultimatecarpage.com/pic.m...um=11&num=1645
__________________
67ghia, 2.3T mid engine conversion, tube frame dbl a-arm, rx7 brakes, currently in parts collection/bodywork stages. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I am putting the "old" wrc engine in to my Superbeetle (1303)
1993 ccm 16 V Turbo. As stock it puts out 204 hp. "All" Cosworth engines in Norway are tuned from 300 hp and up to 700+ hp. I think 300 hp and 330 ib.ft are enough for me. Then I need a strong transmission. T-1 or 091 nosecone? Any suggestions? |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Id take the T1 tranny and to test if its strong enough for your engine do the ol float test. Throw it in the closest large body of water and if it floats then you got a strong enough tranny. Id go porsche 915 and almost nothing else. Im looking for a 915 right now. I figure ill go a month or 2 of babying my type one then ill upgrade.
__________________
67ghia, 2.3T mid engine conversion, tube frame dbl a-arm, rx7 brakes, currently in parts collection/bodywork stages. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
..........WTF?
__________________
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
.... meaning you're not going to get there from here with a T1 tranny. Cheers!
__________________
1970 VW (Stock & Rusted for now), 1994 F350 CC DRW 7.3L PSD, 1971 25 ft Airstream Trailer |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
haha whoa.. that one slipped right by me at 11:00 last night! (don't let that fool you, it probably would have slipped right by me anyway)
__________________
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|