getting there...

[zen]

vrmmm...bmmm...bmmm...bmmm...bmmm...bmmm

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!

got the header installed today. i had to clearance a sizeable amount of my apron which no one else i know has had to do. could be signs of a wreck in the back, but see no indications any other place. but that was definitely a factor in the header being so difficult before.

got a little helping hand from an engine builder who happened to be in the neighborhood. don't know many willing to do house calls. (and i am sure that was not setting any precedence) it cut my time down dramatically though.

filled with fluids. checked for pressure. cranked it and...(see top of message).

one thing worthy of noting. carbon fiber is conductive. what does this mean to me? if you have a terminal block with hots screwed to c/f even on rubber mounts...and a terminal block of grounds screwed to c/f even on rubber mounts...they find their way through the screws to each other due to the carbon and tend to make smoke and a nice burning smell. luckily it was caught quickly and no real damage (just some brownish looking c/f and melted rubber mounts). so what do we learn from this boys and girls? don't screw terminal blocks directly to c/f...bad things happen. told you it was smart to pick up that fire ext. didn't need it though luckily.

also got it back down on all fours. bad news there is i get to reindex the rear. i set the plates one click below the lower stop, but the car is about on the ground and killer camber / \. i will get some pics. best guess is one click on the inside and one on the out should fix it. downside to 944 suspension is the arms have to come out to deal with the spring plates.

i also have to extend my brake pushrod. i am at the end of the threads and still have about 1" travel. has anyone else experienced this? we will see what bias looks like. hopefully good as i have no more time for errors and fixes to make it to Dyno Day this weekend.

sorry for the length.

[NO_H2O]

Make a new brake rod from a long bolt(cut the head offand round it with a grinder). You will still be able to use a jam nut.

[zen]

i mentioned that to jake while he was over and he warned heavily against that due to wear and breaking. i figure a grade 8 bolt would be solid enough, but he didn't feel it would. he recommended welding onto the existing rod and reshaping. i have no clue. thoughts?

[jhelgesen]

I would think a correct size socket head cap bolt that was cut down would be okay, those are pretty hard and come in about any size you could want.

[NO_H2O]

I would think a grade 8 would work, remeber that 8.8 metric is a grade 5 SAE and a 10.0 is a grade 8 SAE. You will have to get it very round and smooth. I would cut it off with the ziz-wheel and then put you drill in a vice and chuck the bolt in it and use the drill as a lathe(locked at a medium speed) and round it with a file then smooth it with sandpaper.

[boygenius]

Have you tried adjusting the spring plates. They are supposed to be adjustable for ride height aren't they.


I would go with a high grade bolt for now and replace it later if it bothers you.

[zen]

will look into those bolt options. i can run it as is for now. still plenty of pedal.

genius, the spring plates aren't going to make up this difference. will take some pics when i get home. i now have dropped spindles on the front and it is about 2" higher than the rear. my header is about 2" off the ground. i was WAY off. seems stock preload would have been the way to go. best guess anyway...and it better be right since i only have time for one more crack at this.