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#1
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Ok, my progress (see also the thread in the engines section):
- Installed new headgaskets and timing belt on the EJ25 - hacked off pretty much the whole back end for clearance ![]() - Got the kennedy adapter and installed the engine - Hacked away pretty much the complete firewall for aircleaner clearance - Bought a used wiring harness - Bought a used MAF sensor (should be coming in today) - Mounted the rad, only to find out I have to move it again Things still to do: - Get an electrical, in line fuel pump. (Any of you GTI guys have one lying around ?) - Plumb fuel return line (may also the feed line, have to see how big it needs to be) - Do the wiring - Hook up the radiator - Build cover for hole in firewall - Build cover for radiator - Get lexan rear quarter windows with naca ducts - etc etc etc ...one day.... ![]() Rob. |
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#2
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...all sounds really familiar.
What stage clutch did you decide to run? My buddy is recommending a stage 2 but says I will probably want to convert to hydro operation and ditch the cable. Building fuel lines myself today, not really hard, just tedious and frustrating.
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No current VW projects 54 Chevy wagon LS2 AWD 56 Chevy Panel "Lost Cause" VKG Bastage child |
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#3
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Hey Panel,
For now, I'm using the stock clutch.... no dinero for a good one yet. What are you using for fuel lines ? I alreay had made a new line for the old engine and I used copper line that runs under the heaterchannel. But I don't like the look of it. Are you running them under the bus ? Also, (not sure if I asked this already), what are you using for a fuel pump ? Rob Quote:
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#4
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I've got it a little easier than you. On a bus, the tank is right in front of the engine so the lines are really short. I'm making up the braided one's with AN fittings (Russell pro-flex brand). -6 is the size my buddy said they use on buggies so that's what I used.
My whole package is pirated straight from what my buddy has set-up for buggies and they use a stock Volvo in-line pump. Apparently he researched and found that this one is good for what they are doing (can use the right fittings for AN, cost effective - I think $100-$115) I understand dinero, My project budget was put on indefinate restriction last week because of new house.
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No current VW projects 54 Chevy wagon LS2 AWD 56 Chevy Panel "Lost Cause" VKG Bastage child |
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#5
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The rust bullet still looks pretty good.....my feet are still on the pans...not the ground
but it's kinda pricey too.....although I was told that it is actually cheaper than the famous POR-15.....Yea I have read that article already, great info. However, one question though: How do I run the wires from the engine to the front? My biggest problem is the firewall..... I just don't know where the wires should go.... The seat are still in my room now.....they are really nice sofas at this point..... I hope I can finish putting them within a week or two...... I made the bracket parts already.... just need to put them together, and drill some holes on the stock seat tracks....... Thanks for your info NO_H2O |
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#6
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I counted all the stuff I needed to wire in the engine bay andmade a twisted wire bundle, color coded it and with rubber gromets went under the package tray and thru the body above the torsion beam. I used a nylon spywrap and some clamps to protect and secure them. Then they run under the carpet along the tunel to the front.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
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#7
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Hey NO_H2O
Did you need to drill a hole to run the wires? I tried to run them today, and I tried to push the new wires through where the original wires are, on the left side of the engine bay. There's a big chunk of sponge over there........ couldn't get through....... Am I doing it the way you did it....? I must say I don't quite understand how you run them.... Thank you so much....
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(O\ /O) "When I grow up I want to be a German Looker." |
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