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#1
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Sandeep,
took a look at mine the other day and i see how the nut on the spindle is held on by very few threads. is yours the same? could you take a pic of the "face" of the rotor? or this spindle nut? i'm a little worried of it coming off. later, pete
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'72 super '65 bus '52 split |
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#2
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........ nice setup :agree: Mike
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My new user name, Mikey for some reason, I havn't liked this name since I made it. Sorry for any problems... Mike |
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#3
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Give Lanner a call @ vdubcustoms. He'll set you up and advise as to what he needs.
Pete, I've already greased the bearings and installed the dust cap and the setup is mounted on the bug so can't take pics of the spindle nut. Check the brake galleries and you'll see a pic of my first setup (944T). The hub assembly is the same and I used an aftermarket spindle nut and got all threads on except maybe one ? I found my original spindle nuts and they measure about 4mm thinner than the aftermarket ones, so I used those instead and I get all threads on the spindle nut to engage. Hope that helps. Sandeep |
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#4
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Here's a pic with the wheel on. The brakes look small
but thats an 18" front wheel Sandeep |
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#5
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Quote:
where do i find these? thanks, pete
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'72 super '65 bus '52 split |
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#6
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To all interested in this brake upgrade
I was adjusting my brake setup last night and thought I would see how the rotors fit with the original brake hats instead of the custom hats. The original hats push the rotor out toward the fender lip by an adittional 6mm (1/4"). This actually works better for me because my front wheels (18x8.5 et 52) rub on the lower trailing arm at full lock.
So, if you use stock 993TT rotors including the stock hats, the increase in track on each side over stock drums, is 28mm (1.10"), with the special adapter hats, the increase is 22mm (0.866"). this takes into account the 6.35mm (1/4") increase per side that the dropped spindles provide. Hope this helps someone. Sandeep |
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#7
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Well, I took the bug for its first drive of the summer last night to make sure there was nothing wrong and to test the brakes ... All I can say is UNBELEIVABLE !!!
I can adjust the bias from locking the fronts only to locking the rear only and the braking power is unreal. I would compare JUST the fronts to being equivalent to my original 4 wheel drums. When I dial in the rears and brake HARD, I feel my glasses trying to leave my face ! ![]() The pedal feels a little harder than the stock setup ( from what I can remember) but not by much and driving around the subdivision, it feels like I have stock brakes. I'm still bedding in the pads (PRB Metal Masters) but I did about 12 stops from about 100Kph to 0 driving about 500m between stops and then got out and felt the rotors and calipers .... The calipers were warm to the touch and the rotors were hot, by hot I mean, I could touch them for about 3-4 seconds before I had to remove my finger. It looks like I have "Fade Free" brakes now but the real test will be when I take it to the track ... REALLY looking forward to that. Sandeep |
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#8
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Thanks for the hope!!
Man I thought Id never be able to fit those beauties on my 69!!
Life is good Anyways I was wondering how you came up with the bracket to mount the calipers on. I dont think it was one long trial and error game so how did you do it? Thanks Clint
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Coming Soon! 86mm X 90.5mm German Look Bad *** VW Hopefully Soon!! Back home in Port Orchard, and saving for the Bug |
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#9
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Quote:
What exactly did you use to have the brake bias selectable? I just got those same brakes, and i'm following your tutorial to put them on my 70 standard. I'm still looking for some info on how to get the rears on there, your tutorial only shows the front. But back to the brake basis thingy, thats really cool! And you post here makes me more and more excited to get my *** in gear and put those bad boys on!!!!
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Making my 70 Beetle into a GL |
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