Most Reliable Power per Dollar Spent!?

[NO_H2O]

They say a T-1 is better suited for the strip, a T-4 is better suited for a road course (more grunt). A big type 1 likes a 48 webber combo, A type 4 likes 45 Dell's. A 48 IDA is more of an "ON-OFF" fuel delivery were a Dell DRLA combo is a little more driver friendly (smoother). They also say that Dell vs Webber IDF mm for mm, Dells flow better. As for the price of Webbers IDF or IDA, they have gone up in the past few months due to a stike and possible plant closing. I went with a 2275 Type-1, a high torque off road cam and Dell 45 DRLA's and so far I like it.
As far as Waserboxer and Oxyboxer,,,,I don't know much about them.

[TitoRay]

Type 4 engines are generally known to last longer and of the dynographs i've seen, some have almost flat torque curves. Power at any rpm range.

~2.3 liter type 4 lasts ~100k miles
~2.3 liter type 1 lasts ~10k miles??

Point being, type 1 motors with this much power cannot be daily driven without constantly being maintained.

Actually, who knows now. Technology keeps getting better. Nikisil plated cylinders, etc.

[TitoRay]

Oh, and we haven't even mentioned turbocharging type 1's and 4's yet.

One of my favorite sayings, and oh so accurate...credits to the originator.

Power, reliability, cheap. You get to pick two. Or something like that.

[beesquad711]

Originally Posted by TitoRay

Power, reliability, cheap. You get to pick two.

The more economical you go the more power and/or longevity you will give up. There's no way around it. Powerful, long-lasting motors cost money.

[Mysticle31]

If it's cheap enough to build! It's cheap enough to rebuild. All depends on that ratio. IE if I takes me 100 bucks to build a 180HP engine that will last 50K miles, but it would cost me 150 bucks that will last 100K miles. It's best to go with the latter.



How did you build that engine!! That is PERFECT! What cams? Dispmacement? Headwork? CR, heads..etc

[Mysticle31]

Also what tranny do you use with it? How do you like it?

I want one of these engines! Looks like one of jakes?

[Mysticle31]

Also I wonder what the power is like below 2500. Is it streetable? The numbers at 2500 start out higher then the 2270 type C. And that Dyno sheet starts at 2500 too. (besides that little intro curve. don't tell me the 2270C has no power below that )

[zen]

Originally Posted by Mysticle31

How did you build that engine!! That is PERFECT! What cams? Dispmacement? Headwork? CR, heads..etc

Jake and Jake. Took a lot of guesswork and costly errors out of the equation for me. I figured an engine like that didn't need to be my first build (his kits take care of that if you have the time to do the build). I wanted something stupid powerful...got it. Can't beat leveraging the research.

[Mysticle31]

Jakes engine that I saw on there didn't produce 180HP? So you just called jale and ordered a 2316 and a type 2 (or was it type b?) tranny?

Does he offer it as a kit? That car of yours must be a HOOT!! How long is it suposed to last? How can I build one?

[boygenius]

I hate rotaries with a passion. The fuel mileage isn't very good and they don't make any low end tourqe. Once you get them reved up the power is very smooth and they pull pretty hard. Mine had about 180 hp according to the local RX-7 shop.



The WRX engine only needs a little triming to fit and they are good for about 280 hp with only a few mods. Do a search in this forum for more information on the WRX swap.

[Mysticle31]

For such a little carb and mani those are expensive (vs say.. Edelbrock for V8's. wowsers!) Mabey I shouldn't dump my MK2 VR6..heh..

Type 4, Rotory, Subie. Anyone know anything about the brases I'd need to reinforce the chasis for a high HP motor? (I'm hoping to add a simple rollcage or at least a roll bar any good ones?)

[LOAF]

WRX engines are good.. I even at one point considered it for my vert.. But do to the clearancing issues, and having to remove material I opted against it..

They do make power.. The one in my car is around 270-280 at the motor.. With some Engine management and a high quality exhaust, it is like night and day.. To bad I can't transplant it into the bug..

Alex

[Mysticle31]

What tranny and drivetrain would I want to use with a Subie engine to make best street use of it's powerband and hold up to that power? How much does a swap cost..on the average (or personal experence)?



Also, where can I get more info on doing say a junkyard supercharger? What cooling issues would there be? (it's like having a bigger engine right? the watercooled don't ness. need bigger rads?)

[Mysticle31]

I just read about something called a Type V Waterboxer (Oxyboxer) What is that? More info please?

[vwpride73]

Forget the rotary, they might make some hp but they lack low end grunt. And the reason say a 10 second N/A type-1 engine is a pain to drive is because to make that kind of hp the need a super high lift cam, monster carbs, giant exhaust, and the heads ( Superflow and such). Now the down side of all of those parts, you sacrifice low end with the carbs, exhaust and the cam. The problem with the cam is that it doesn't "come on" until say 3500-4000 rpm. Now with these after market high-po heads they dont have the cooling fins like say a stock 041 head. Type-1 are mainly a peaky and violent engine compared to a type-4. What do you want from an engine? What is going to be it's purpose? And I think turbo-charging a type-1 or type-4 would be your best bet, but if you lack experience do your homework(books and other online material). The great thing about the turbo is to make more power you dont have to increase the size of the engine, up the compression, or anything else like you would with a N/A engine. A turbo is a torque mutiplier. Turbo = More Torque = More Fun.