Questions about Bill K.s ride

[Bill K.]

I'm really tired -- 8p to 1a every nite for weeks since the paint was done... Running on sisu. The launch down the street this morning helps a lot.

DTM tin -- tricky with or without instructions. I pre-fit before installing, then tweeked some more after installing. I did this after replacing my rear clip and before paint to make sure the engine would fit. I had to clearance/bend the lower lip of the apron for the header to clear. The car had been rear ended, so the body was tweeked in the left rear. The body shop pulled it back into alignment so the deck lid would close right. Now header clearance is great.

Anyway, there is a lot of work to do to the side tin to fit around the intake manifolds. I used a hole saw to rough cut then a grinder to finish fit. Mine ended up a lot narrower at the apex than the kit starts with. Jake says the kits that way for compatibility with other intakes. The engine seal gives a lot of room for slop and Jake said some gaps are fine. I measured my engine bay width, cut a cardboard template and used that to gauge how much to remove from the side tin. When I have the engine out next time, I'm definately going to open up a couple holes and use fender washers to cover up the misfits. The double over lap ones in the rear corners were the toughest for me. The shroud tabs also needed trimming to fit the breather hoses at the heads, so take that into account when installing the nut inserts. Then I had to clearance the corners of the intake manifold flange next to the breather hoses to install the carbs.

You can probably trim the side tin with the engine in. Hopefully you have the rear tin attached to the engine... pull the engine if you don't . For me, getting the engine in/out was easy compared to fitting the tin.

Filter adapter -- mounting to the wheel well was simple enough. I had brake line clearance issues to the left muffler when I lowered the car to the ground, but I re-routed the line. I have stock trailing arms with CB disks, so the Porsche setup probably won't have a problem. Just be aware of wheel travel when mounting the filter adapter, etc. I'm going to add 2 +/- inch spacers to fill the +3 fenders, so I'll have more muffler clearance but it's fine as is. On STF, I'm getting suggestions to add a filter rock shield. I'm thinking about a "fender inside the fender" to guard the filter bottom and side while still giving access to change the filter without removing the shield.

BAS -- Mounting the trany brackets is just as much fun as the engine tin. Starter bracket took bending to clear the traction bar and eyes on your fingers to fit the link fastener. Left side bracket involved shortening the mounting stud, dimpling the frame horn, backing the trany side plate studs out, washer shims, clamp welding. At this point I was in another world, so I just took it one challenge at a time always with the "do it right" montra keeping me from flipping out. I used exhaust clamps to hold the three lateral seams together and will monitor for backfires before I commit to welding.

Take it one step at a time, there are no short cuts... The racing starts when the car is done AND your happy with it.
Bill

[zen]

augh. sure you don't want to come over and take care of that for me? i am just so ready to drive this thing. nothing new, but time is running short on me making a show with the car. would rather get it right though and refuse to take too much quality time away from the kids over it. looks like i am a bachelor all weekend so maybe i can make up some ground.

your car is really looking good and coming along nicely. you really belong in the VKG.

[davygrvy]

Originally Posted by Bill K.

BAS -- Mounting the trany brackets is just as much fun as the engine tin. Starter bracket took bending to clear the traction bar and eyes on your fingers to fit the link fastener. Left side bracket involved shortening the mounting stud, dimpling the frame horn, backing the trany side plate studs out, washer shims, clamp welding. At this point I was in another world, so I just took it one challenge at a time always with the "do it right" montra keeping me from flipping out. I used exhaust clamps to hold the three lateral seams together and will monitor for backfires before I commit to welding.

I so understand.. I ploughed through my BAS install in a day, for which I should have slowed down, but was pressured by a deadline.

Deadlines suck. Keep that montra going! :agree:

[Bill K.]

Mounted fenders, doors, and bumpers. Fenders and bumpers are rough mounted for now since I'm sending it back for paint touch-up next week. Rear stance is a little off after switching to 944 torsion bars, but not bad for first try. I'll dial-in the spacers I need this weekend after ripping it around a bit to settle the suspension.



More pictures:
Rear end
Front side
Front end

[zen]

glad you went monotone. looking really good. got my setrab today. so i will be fitting tomorrow. and pulling my engine again. did i say...augh.

[Bill K.]

It took me a few trips to get the fittings right for the Setrab install. Here's what finally worked for me:

Oil pump outlet -- changed from Jakes 90 to a 3/8 NPT street 45 with a straight -8 Swivel Seal Earls AN hose end fitting. The 45 helps clear the return line so you can tighten the pump outlet line. Used Permatex 80631 "thread sealant w/ teflon" on all NPT thread per Jakes recommendation -- good seal, but not permanent like loctite 418.

Oil filter adapter -- the "left/left" adapter, fly cut seal surface to get a flat/square seal surface (see AC.net). Mounted in fender well at same height or higher than cooler for good drainage during oil change.

Oil filter inlet -- 90 3/8 NPT to straight hose end fitting. Spin the 90 onto the filter adapter first then do the filter outlet port.

Oil filter outlet -- straight 3/8 NPT to male AN with a 90 hose end

Oil cooler inlet/outlet -- straight 3/8 NPT to male AN with a 45 hose end. Originally, I went with straight hose ends to/from the cooler but did not like the strain that bending the tube put on the fittings, so I went with the 45's.

Case return -- straight 3/8 NPT to male AN with a straight hose end fitting.

Hose -- Auto-Flex, 10' -- had about 30" extra. Protected the hose with 7/8 ID fire braid over the header.

Hope it goes well for you Zen. It'll be ALOT easier with the engine out. Easy access results in better quality.

[Racelook]

VERRY VERRY nice!!!!

WHat a great car

[randyj]

Do you have some pictures of your roll bar set up?

Randy

[zen]

bill,

a couple of questions for you:

1. what of the tin did you have installed while putting the engine in? just the front tins?
2. did your nut tabs have #30 holes already in them? the instructions lead me to believe that they should already be there and mine do not have any. seems like that could be pretty tough to drill through while clamped to the shroud tab. jake's on vacation or i would ask him.
3. what the heck is a #30 anyway?
4. what are you using for the throttle cable going through the shroud?
5. how low does your left muffler hang down? looks to be below the sump, but is it lower than the pan? i'm debating about just bypassing the left muffler and inserting a straight pipe there. not sure though. main reason being to leave more room for the filter, t-stat and lines.