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#1
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I took some pictures last night but they came out blurry ... I will retake tonight.
The T4 case pickup tube diameter at the entrance to the pump is 12mm dia, and the 45 deg passage to the stock oil filter is 10mm dia. On the pump, the intake to the scavenge side is 15mm dia and the output to the stock oil filter location is 12mm, so the pump has inlet/outlet bigger than the passages in the T4 case. Due to this, the pump passages line up well with the case passages, if you really wanted to, you could try to open up the case passages to match the pump but I will not. In the pics you can fully see the case passage from the stock pickup tube location through the pump scavange hole (15mm dia) and when I stick a pencil in from the stock oil filter location, you can see it through the pump transfer port (12mm dia). From measurements with the stock T4 pump, the body of the CB pump is roughly the same height at the drive boss, and it fit the case nicely without the drive tange .. remember, I am using a stock cam with rivets so I could measure no clearance issues. To get the drive tange to engage the cam, I pressed the gears further onto the drive shaft with a vise and some sockets, about 3mm total, in effect making the drive tange shorter. I can turn over the engine with the starter (no coil wire attached !) and pump installed and when I pulled the pump, there is no contact with the cam rivets. I seem to have about 1mm clearance from the rivets to any location on the pump. The only item I have to address is to machine about 3mm from the driveshaft that now sticks into the cover plate, essencially making the whole drive tange 3mm shorter. I did not want to touch the opposite side of the drive that engages the cam slot. I will press the gears off and do this on the weekend. The pump clears the BAS header by about 13mm so no clearance issues ! and no issues with the pump input/output touching the case. If you have a rear engine hanger bar, you will not be able to fit this pump. I'm using a Cup brace so no issues. Not sure if this pump will fit in a 914. So looks like I'm good to go with the installation. Just need to install the tank, wait for the fittings/hose to show up, plumb the system and we're on the road for a test. Good thing the weather here is still crappy Hope to be driving in early April.Sandeep |
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#2
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Thanks for the excellent report Sandeep!
It sure looks like the way to go. Greetings, Walter |
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#3
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hiya Sandeep,
i measured my dynosoar pump, pressure side is 32mm long x 32mm dia, and scavenger side is 64mm long x 32mm dia. 2:1 ratio, thats why i like this pump, the scavenger side is twice as big as the feed to the engine, that way i can use it to suck foamy hot oil out of my turbo, and foamy hot oil out of my sump plus whatever air it can find in there. Its big though and clearance is a problem. I have a spare cb pump, if you want to check it out. I get my fittings at the parker hydraulics store, not sure how competitive their pricing is, but their products are top notch and they will make custom stainless braided hoses for hight heat applications (close to header). bry
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GL ghia restoration: http://s473.photobucket.com/albums/r...20restoration/ __________________________________________ Last edited by CLKWRK; March 30th 2005 at 10:30. |
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#4
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That pump is HUGE ! I'd really have to modify my BAS header to fit that puppy
I think for now the CB Pump will have to do. As soon as I get ready for the turbo, I will consider getting a turbo header built with enough clearance to fit a proper DS pump. Thanks for the pic. Sandeep |
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#5
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Finally have the bug on the road and thought I would give an update.
The CB DS pump has solved all of my oil starvation problems. I can brake HARD, corner HARD and accelerate HARD and the oil pressure hasn't dropped below 25psi. I found an empty parking lot and performed some large loops doing about 30mph clockwise and counter clockwise .... NO pressure problems I will check the case oil level when I shut the car down and then check it again after it sits overnight to see if I need a shut of valve of some sort.I have the Cup brace mounted and can peel the tires in first big time ! HA and no wheel hop ! .... its like driving a totally different car now ... one that I can enjoy and not worry about that #@$#@$ oil light. :agree: I have to learn to shift that 5 speed ... I've grinded 3rd alot so far perhaps time to adjust the shift linkage.Now to find a Drivers Education class ! Sandeep |
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#6
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Hi Sandeep,
Just a quick question about your pressure not dropping below 25 psi: is the mentioned 25 psi also the minimum pressure hot ( about 180F oil) at idle? Thanks, Walter |
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#7
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Wally,
I get 20 psi @ idle when oil temp is 180F. At speed (4000 rpm) I get 60 psi @ 180F. (20W50 Castrol) Cold I get 60 psi @ idle and up to 80 psi as I drive to get it warmed up. LOVE this pump ... I have no need for a shut off valve as my DS tank is mounted very low. After sitting for the weekend, I measure the oil level in the case and it does not even register on a stock length flexible dipstick that I have. :agree: My DS tank has a 10L capacity. Sandeep |
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#8
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Quote:
If I can use it, ever think about selling it? btw I understand how the regular two stage works but CB looks like they really pack in those gears, plus the routing must be tight to have the inlets and outlets the way they are. Clkwrk or Sandeep got any pics with view of the routing? thanks Rip
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Rip H. Van Winkle "The Ultimate Sleeper" |
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#9
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Winter is coming and I'm looking for a project to get myself in trouble with.........;D
I've been looking at a dry sump system for a while. It sounds like we have to modify the CB pump just like the type oil pumps we put on our Type4 engines - no big deal. I have a Ahnendorp rear hanger and LA Perf. jpipes and collector. If you look at these 2 pictures - can you tell if the CB pump will clear ? Also - what the overall depth of the CB pump housing ? Thanks ! Dan |
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