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Old August 12th 2005, 04:08
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ricola ricola is offline
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I used that set-up on my speedster replica while i was sorting out the front 944s, to be honest it was the best balance of all the combinations I used, better than with the 944 fronts and I used the stock m/c. I'm sure my front end was relatively lighter than a bug but I have seen it done before with no concerns...

Rich
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Old August 12th 2005, 20:01
Jeza Jeza is offline
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My only concern with that setup is that you have large vented rotors on the rear and small solid rotors on the front.

This means that the rears can absorb a LOT more heat than the fronts can.

So if you are pushing the car hard (Track or Targa type racing) you may find that the fronts become unresponsive, causing you to work the pedal harder and then the rears are more prone to locking under certain conditions.

It is a rear engined car so you can afford more brake power on the rears than most cars out there, but you still have to be careful, things get "taily" with too much rear brake.

You should be able overcome this with a bias valve plumbed into the rear line and set appropriately.

Cheers
Jeremy
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Old August 16th 2005, 01:02
WD-40 WD-40 is offline
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Thanks for the replies.

Jeza-
Good observation. But theoretically, the only time that would happen is if I pushed hard enough for the fronts to fade. In that sort of situation, if I had solid discs on all four corners (or, the disc/drum combo) I would most likely not have ANY brakes!! (right?)

Has anyone run the solid discs and had many problems overheating them?


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- David
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Old August 16th 2005, 04:04
Jeza Jeza is offline
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There are ways around this occuring such as a proportioning valve in the rear line.

Careful selection of pads for front and rear might help. Drilled or slotted front rotors (that are still solid) may help to. Best to talk with a brake shop and see if they have any suggestions.

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Jeremy
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Last edited by Jeza; August 16th 2005 at 04:09.
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