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The thing that really tempts me to keep the twins is that since they are sequentially controlled, power from the little turbo (really small T2) starts to kick in at 1800 rpm! I've seen dyno sheets of this motor putting out 280 pound feet of torque at only 3300 rpm with only a piggy-back ECU, intake, and exhaust! I'll be using a fully programable sequential Haltech EMS. This gives me the ability to adjust boost,air/fuel ratios, timing, idle speed, launch control ect, at any rpm at any time with my laptop. Meaning if the motor runs lean at 6250 rpm and rich at 6900, I can adjust the air/fuel ratio at the seperate rpm's to get the perfect 14.7 pressure, and also beyond that, I can set the timing to retard even more and more with more boost at higher rpm's... so basically, yeah everything is adjustable. Motec does the same thing for $2000 more, Do I want the name? Or do I want to finish the car before i'm thirty :shrug: ? The bet is still on with some friends and family that i can't get the car done by July 15th 2006... so Russell has no life and no money to spend on his girlfriend for the next 10 months . I even cut down on the booze to get this car done :haveadrin !
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1974 type 1 Turbo 6 piston brakes at all corners ![]() Project is taking all my money and it's all Germanlook.com's fault! 98' Audi A4 93' T-Bird (oh yeah!) 90' 911 C2 74' beetle |
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#2
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Just to clarify..a rotary is not unreliable if looked after..just like any car.
secondly, you CAN put the radiator/radiators in the back. a design i might be doing, which is the same as ian swinkles is to have two litle radiators from PWR. one under each rear fender with a fan on each. ian swinkles runs this setup with GREAT success. and very little cutting required compared to mounting it up the front. good to see antoher conversion on its way though. Anthony |
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#3
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Dont mean to threadjack, but you have any more info on that radiator setup? Ive pretty much settled on cutting out the area behind the back seat and installing a 31" 2core aluminum, but it would be nice to leave that area intact.
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#4
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if you were asking me that question bean then i will get back to you with some info and possibly a website that has the isntall details.
Anthony |
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#6
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Subaru motor builders
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After speaking to a couple of the leading tuners that work on both motors, rotary motors are "unreliable under high boost pressures with stock housings, and rotors." If guys that build and tune the motors all day say that the rotary motor is more difficult to work with, less reliable on a stock block, and more expensive to get high HP #'s with, I went with the logical choice...Subaru's EJ20TT. Make the decision for yourself though, this seemed to be the right motor for me. I made a new thread adding up the prices for a complete motor with 250 hp that added up to be $1500 USD, minus the radiator (everyone has there own theory on where the best place to put it and which to use. Dodge caravan radiators are widely used up front with no cooling issues and fit well. The best people to talk to about Subaru motors are: Chris or Tom at Danzioperformance.com (In my oppinion, the best, very knowledgeable, excellent suggestions, and work with many differant motors, specialize in Subaru, LS1,LS2,LS6,Northstar, and rotary motors) 951-245-2537 Crawford performance (The best street subaru motor builder on the planet) 760-631-2927 Xcceleration.com (very high HP, pricey) 1-860-985-3006 Outbackmotors.com (the best sandrail subaru motor builder) 714-994-5222 (talk to Jon, Mack shatters my hopes and dreams everytime I talk to him) Best of luck to ya, I'll post pictures of the project tomorrow
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1974 type 1 Turbo 6 piston brakes at all corners ![]() Project is taking all my money and it's all Germanlook.com's fault! 98' Audi A4 93' T-Bird (oh yeah!) 90' 911 C2 74' beetle |
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#7
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Please?
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Mike '04 R32 Tornado Red '02 New Beetle TDI - Daily driver '64 Ghia - Project!!-Subaru EJ20T, MS/EDIS, 993 brakes, 914 Tranny... |
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