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  #1  
Old November 28th 2005, 01:43
kakarottt kakarottt is offline
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Location: Bel Air, MD
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As it stands, i have a siezed 2110..
I can sell it whole for maybe 1500 or part it out and possibly get more.
this is what it has:
90.5mm forged piston & cylinder kit
4340 chromoly gland nut and heavy-duty washer
82mm 4340 chromoly forged billet counterweighted crankshaft
forged I-beam rods
Scat C-45 (W125) performance grind camshaft with gear
lightweight performance lifters
heavy-duty chromoly pushrods
Hi-performance engine gasket set
heavy-duty oil pump
heavy-duty main, rod and cam bearing sets
Heavily Ported Heads
44mm intake and 37mm exhaust valves
High Rev Dual Valve springs
EMPI 1.25 Forged ratio rockers
8.9:1 C/R
Dual Weber 44 idf's
1 5/8 inch headers
Dual BugPack Quiet Pack mufflers
Compufire DIS *distributorless* ignition system 60,000 volt coilpack
Kennedy stage I clutch/pressure plate (slips, but helps keep me from breaking the stock tranny
Deep oil sump

Do you think it is worth the 1500 i am asking?
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifie....php?id=243767

i took this info from 73notch's site

Engine . 500
MegaSquirt . 225
Relayboard . 100
Edis . 20
Adapter plate . 450
Clutch and PP . 120
Plumbing 21(pipe)+20(hose)+9(clamps) 50
Radiator griffen . 180
Walbro external inline fuel pump . 115
Fuel filter . 5
Fuel line and hose . 20
Exhaust 21(ubend)+14(4ft)+5(flange) 40
Universal vw throttle cable . 6
Aluminum radiator shroud 6ft(aluminum flashing@OSH) 9

So non turbo might run me around 1,850 using his costs as a guideline.
i know mine could possibly be more or less, but it also gives me 150 dollar margin and i might just find a job if im lucky ^_^

I dont know what a MegaSquirt, RelayBoard, or Edis are.
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  #2  
Old November 28th 2005, 15:05
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Rob Rob is offline
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Location: Dundas, Ontario, Canada
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Get a complete (running) sube for your swap.

First of all, you will know it runs, and won't find out the motor is hosed once you've spend a ton off $$ and a ton of time on it.
Second, you will have all the hoses, wiring, sensors and all do-hickeys you need for the conversion and would have killed your budget if you had to buy them all afterwards.

Put the rad up front.
Not sure about cutting the heaterchannels, aren't these a structural part of the bug ?

Turbo is nice, but it is also more complex and will break your tranny faster.

If you are not getting a complete car, grab as much crap off the donor car as possible. DON'T CUT ANY WIRES.

You might want to take a look here :
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...nagon/messages

In the 'files' section they have a list of 'things to take from the donor'.

Rob.
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Old November 28th 2005, 22:21
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73notch 73notch is offline
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you forgot to read my disclaimer at the bottom of my price list.

1500 seems high for a seized motor,
id save up 4000 before doing the subaru swap.
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Old November 29th 2005, 01:31
kakarottt kakarottt is offline
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Location: Bel Air, MD
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its kinda hard to come to selling it for so cheap after i just dumped over 3,000 into it just last month =(

yeah, i should take the cost and double it... im in a predicament, i guess the first thing in order is just to find a motor that works.. maybe a 1600dp
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Old November 29th 2005, 23:59
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Location: Owensboro, Kentucky, USA
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My opinion would be to get another engine up and running. That way you can take more time to plan the swap, it isn't an overnight deal. It'll take time. I'm all for another suby swap, but You'll need a daily driver and a separate project. That way you can keep working$$, and take more time on the project.

Just my opinion. Good luck.

I'm not sure if I would call your engine TurnKey if it doesn't run.
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Old December 7th 2005, 21:27
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>Siezed due to the drain plug falling out.<

What!? I would estimate the bottom end to be completely toast then. The block might be fine and some other smaller items... But the crank and rods are most probably damaged.

That being said what were the numbers on the crank? Like new for rods and mains? Or turned a few times already? If it is a new crank then it can be machined and be fine, but an old crank might not take another grind.

I agree that you should find a 1600DP to put around with until your next motor is ready... That being said I encourage you just to rebuild the current motor. It should have plenty of power for you... More than an old Subie engine for sure.
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  #7  
Old December 19th 2005, 17:33
kakarottt kakarottt is offline
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I started it up and made it maybe a half mile down the road.. i can see where the oil trail started.. The motor wasn't even warm when it siezed. I THINK somone loosened the drainplug. I drove the car a good hundred or so miles that day..

man i am so screwed over.

I just bought a 1200 that just had "stuck rings"

pulled the heads off.. looks more like it had spent a long time in a river. the cylinders were filled with sand and rocks.
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