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#1
November 29th 2005, 16:50
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Hello all,
sorry for the late answer but i was extremely busy. About PJL54Oval's post- fotos 1,2,3 fixing of the rack on passenger's site with the modification to accept the std 1303 steering shock absorber foto 4 the hole needs to get bigger as in the std hole the shaft should hit the body tin (as Steve mentions) fotos 5,8 fixing on the driver side with the lock stop visible and the wheel-body clearance achieved with it's help fotos 6,7 In every way a tight fit!!! fotos 9,10,11 ixing on drivers side About Supa Ninja post- It's a standard 1303 75' rack, reconditioned and modificated in the points of fixing the absorber and the lock stops. The car is a 1973 1303 (with steering box). For economy reasons, the rack is exactly the same as the Audi 80 or VW Passat (same lenght, diameter, working direction order, fixing of the steering arms) less the fixing points themselfs (which very easily can be converted to fit) and the drive axle fixing channels (requires a slight different shaft, also easily obtainable). Didn't check the drive ratio though between the two About Steve C post- The procedure for me was as you mention on your post. Two points though to mark: My car had already the depression on the body AND the holes WITH threads for the fixing exactly below the cross brace that has to be removed, so it was relatively easy for me to do it. BUT in a second 1303 car (probably with 1302 chassis?) none of the above were present so I had to fabricate them. The nuts worked the same way as you and the chassis job went in the second way you mention: First I cut the entire spare wheel well, I cut the chassis and rewelded (with interior strenghtening) to fabricate the depression and then I rewelded the well. So those minor?? details in my opinion should be considered before starting anything. About the lock stops, on the passenger side is easily obtainable as there is a cap of about 20mm which can be drilled and tapped. For the driver side the cap is made of thin tin, so I had to replace it also with a thicker cap to be possible to tap it to accept threads. The locks are 10mm allen bolts without head. So the only way to do it right is to have the rack dismantled. As a general feeling, the steering is very strict (not any suspision of dead movement) very fast from side to side (don;t remember exactly but for sure less turns comp. with the box) and very light on the still turning: with a 225 tyre A LOT easier than a good box with 165 tyre. No info though on the street because the car isn't running yet. Hope to find out soon! Friendly Jim PS - I did my best with my English, hope you get what I writed!! 
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#2
November 29th 2005, 23:32
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Jim your English was superb, thanks for the reply (as the wheels turn in my head for another possible upgrade
 )Nick
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#3
November 30th 2005, 14:17
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Yes Jim, your english is better than some floks I know who have lived here in the states for many years! Thank you so much as well as everyone else on this post. I am going to be searching for the rack, either the 1303 or the Audi/Passat. I am going to go at this conversion as a possible bolt on setup and will share any patterns/part numbers I come up with.
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#5
May 1st 2006, 01:09
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Quote:
Only if you want to do this: Double Wishbone Conversion or your converting to a Super Mac Strut set-up. The rack doesn't work with the steering angles created with the trailing arm setup. Jason
__________________
If I could just get paid for my sleepless nights.... 1960 VW Bug UBRDUB Walkaround 1st Drag Run Dyno Run Oval Ragster-'57 Rag/'04 Boxster S
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#6
September 19th 2006, 03:43
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Cant get the pictures above to work. Anyone have them and could repost them?
Going to buy a superbeetle. Choosing between a 1302, 1303 without rack or wait for a 1303 with rack What would you guys prefer? Is it worth it to not retrofit the rack into the 1302/1303 or should I go for the most rust free and healthy chassis/body and graft in the rack eventually? My blog: http://jtwe.skyblogs.be
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#8
July 10th 2007, 16:01
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Quote:
Last edited by vwbao; July 10th 2007 at 16:04.
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#10
July 11th 2007, 00:30
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Where would one go about buying a r&p? I'm in the middle of nowhere canada and not a lot of super beetles around.
__________________
1969 VW Bus 2.2L suby - Driving Daily 1302 EJ20 turbo
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#11
July 11th 2007, 02:51
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Hello all
vwbao, if you want I could send you some photos, to see which are the differences between the stock one and the Audi one. Actually I couldn't tell you for sure which model exactly is but its something about the years 78-80. Just give me a mail address to send you the pics and you could go after it with the pics in hand. About what dorigtt said, if what he describes is the smaller aluminum bodied assembly (from the European VW polo), I think you could go this way much easier, because is a lot smaller and thus easier to fix it. Actually there is a German company that has this conversion (with TUV included) ready as a bolt on kit, as soon as I find the link I will post it Friendly JIMP
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#12
July 11th 2007, 08:59
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Jimp, here is my email add vwbao@aol.co.uk thanks alot!
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