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#1
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I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. Getting a disc and simply drilling holes into doesnt equate to better cooling. If you want a reliable setup for steet use, that wont break the bank, go with Toplines kit, I've seen and felt this kit on a couple bugs, from new to well used, and would highly recommend it. Another option, since you already have discs, calipers, etc...juat get the caliper backets from Topline, get the new billet style ones, beefier than the original. Vdub customs also has some very pretty, super tough looking caliper bracket for $90/pair. You will also need the hoses(whatever ones are "teflon-lined"), seals, and hardware. Drilling for daily driven steet use is a common misconception. All too often, you will end up going through pads like crazy. Why? Picture your pads as a block of cheese and the drilled rotor as a cheese grater...get the picture. The drilling concept started at the racing level, not for daily commuting. I'm not saying NOT TO, I just would'nt. For true, usable cooling benefits, you need a vented rotor. Check out vdubcustoms.com for options that use a vented rotor, such as the golf, mazda, or of course the porsche kits. Of course going this route, the cost starts going up, be it custom hub, caliper brackets, parts, etc.... IMO, I feel that the kit from Topline would be good even for a weekend autocross car, much less a dd. Also, if you feel you need to upgrade the rear end, you could replace all related parts and hardware, getting the best possible quality available. For really good results, replace your drums with new german units, and have a look at the "super stopper" rear break shoes from aircooled.net. I've heard good things about them, and will increase stopping power. Probably some sort of ceramic material. If you want discs at all four corners, check out the roto-hubs from CB Performance. Overall, you would come out spending less money, but have less of a wow effect...it all depends on what your going for... Plus, with the options described, your still able to get a custom bolt pattern, (ie 4X100 or whatever), so you can get more rims to choose from. Just some ideas....
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=EuroLook71= 71' Super Beetle 1.6L DP - Kadrons, stock heads P&P by me
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#2
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dont drill non-vented rotors. Just get them heat treated and get a good set of pads
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#3
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Thanks guys. I had misconseptions due to a guy I know who drag races who had his discs cross drilled and it seamed to work well. I do agree though about the cheeze grater. hahahahahaha. also I thougth Cip1 brakes were autocross brakes: that's what I want. The reason why I'm going that route with 1 piston galipers is because: 1st, I believe it's enough for a 1915 0r 1966 engine in a 850 pound car, 2nd it's less expensive when you buy it, 3rd less expensive when changing parts, 4th only one piston per wheel to service: less time, less money, less complicated. i will check with topline.
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#4
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Lot of folks have purchased topline products.. to include myself..
Real good costumer service and parts are top notch.. I have pretty much everything except the brakes since I went a different route, and no regrets.. how it works on the road, well time will tell, as I still have her on Jack stands.. but quality is excellent..Loaf
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78 Vert, In pieces and on hold also a 73 Saloon, currently being built.. |
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#5
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With Topline I can only see disc conversion kits for SuperBs. Mine is a 1974 BJ... The interesting thing with them is that you don't have to change the spindles... but are the Super and Standard using the same spindles?
Also, does anybody have any information about the specs of their GT4 racecar? |
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#6
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The topline plug was for joetech, he said he has a 73 super. And no, super and std bug spindles a are not interchangable.
__________________
=EuroLook71= 71' Super Beetle 1.6L DP - Kadrons, stock heads P&P by me
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#7
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Topline brakes
I just ordered Topline's disc conversion and will let you guys know how easy it is to install them. I am impressed that the kit comes with everthing down to the steel braided brake lines. I am also happy that there is no need to change my spindles.
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