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#1
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Nice breaks!!!
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B-Extreme B-Tuning..... Racebug is comming to get ya!!! |
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#2
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Quite impressive!
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#3
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Thank's for the support guys. I don't think I will have problems stopping now. Now if I can get that 2.5L typeIV built, I think I can go!
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans ![]() 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG |
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#4
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Very nice.
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#5
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wrenchnride247
I assume by looking at the calipers and spindles that you powdercoated both. Did you have any problems taking the calipers apart and putting them back together again? I have a set of 944 Turbo calipers that I will be using on my Ghia project and would like to know if you had any problems, etc… with the powdercoating. I understand that it adds a bit of thickness to the surface and that the mating surfaces amy need some work to get everything lined up again. No point in upgrading the brakes and not showing them off by making them bright yellow or red. n
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#6
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yeah, what Doogie S said.
I as well am sitting on 4- 4pots that I would love to fully rip apart and have media-blasted and then powder-coated. However, I have read many 'postings & articles' that say don't take them apart (split the caliper body into the two primary parts) or they will never 'seal' the same way again.
While I am pretty sure that is not the case, I am still learning about these parts, and am not fully confident in just 'jumping into it and taking them apart'. I just want to know about any chambers that the two sides may share, if any. I have a single copper hard line that connects the two sides, so wouldn't that handle any and all "sealing"? As Doogie S had mentioned worries in regards to the additional thickness to the caliper sides as a result of the powder coating. I am not worried about that and had presumed that that would just be the way of the process and the parts would require some finishing. Besides, thats hardly a mm of material. Simply 'resurface' the mating faces and all is back to dandy. Sorry for the long post, hope it was clear. also, details on the parts used and what was done for the install? Thanks for sharing. drive safe. |
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#7
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Before anybody rebuilds Brembos, make sure you can get the seal kits. In the US, the only kits I could find had the pistons and seals about $50 US each piston kit X 8 =
. My dust boots were torn on a few pistons, so I changed all. Three suppliers told me Brembo will not sell just the seals. For some reason you have to change the pistons, too . The old pistons are teflon coated and looked as good as the new ones. Maybe there's a heat issue. I don't know. I was told if you remove the inner seals they cannot be reused. So if all your seals and dust boots are good, it might not be a good idea to remove them. I had to remove them to powdercoat calipers, and since some boots were torn, I replaced everything.If you still want to tear'em apart, read on. Of course, you remove the pads. Then you can take a block of wood or plastic, that fits in where the pads go(about as thick as a pad), and use this to stop the pistons as they come out. You need air pressure to get them out. Just put a blow gun in the brakeline inlet and put a small amount of air in the caliper. Be careful! The pistons can come out with speed and force that will surprise you and your fingers, if they get in the way. Once you get a few out, you need to cover the holes so you have enough pressure to get the other ones out. The small button head screws that hold the plates inside the caliper on both ends are a PITA to remove. They sit next to the pads and rotors so they get the most heat. If you're lucky, you can heat the bolts and try to remove them. Most of mine came out the hard way because they wanted to stripout. If you can get past that part, it gets easier. After you get the plates out you can remove the crossover line(copper line)and bleed screws. The bolts holding the caliper halves together need to be heated before removing, as they have a thread locking compound on them. Mine were still hard to remove, but finally came out. Now you should have four halves if all worked out ok. I used a good paint stripper to get clearcoat off. If your calipers are still factory, all they have is black anodized finish inside and out. Then when halves and hardware were put together they were clear coated. I would not try removing the anodized finish, as the powdercoating works over the top of this. Also, don't coat the caliper halves where the two mate together, or where the pistons and boots go. When you put them back together there are arrows on both halves that should point in the same direction. The halves line back up easily, as the bolt holes are very close tolerance. There are no internal crossover ports, so no worry with leaks jmd. If you spray the calipers lightly with powder, you will not have too much extra thickness. The powder coating may retain a little more heat during braking, but if your not racing it should'nt matter that much. The spindles are powdercoated, too. The whole suspension will be powdercoated blue except the ali trailing arms(just clear coated). I have another thread in the brakes section titled "Rebuild kits" that has pics before, during, and after. As long as this post is, it should have been a tech article. Sorry.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans ![]() 1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels VKG |
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