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Hi Zeroaxe
Quote:
I don’t know were you got the bit about preload from, as a rule I wouldn’t preload the bars but make sure there was no play in any of the joints when they are installed. There is bound to be some play between the bar ends, mounts, and bolts, that is the play I would remove, but I wouldn’t wind any preload on to them, other than just the amount required to remove the play. Also what I would do is if you are installing the bar on a car that’s is all reedy going then I would adjust up the bars with the car sitting on all 4 wheels, so if your not real skinny then you would need ramps or if you’re a bit like me then a 4 post hoist wouldn’t go a miss. If the car is still in the building stage then I would just loosely fit the bars, but once you are ready to drive it I would remove the bars and get a few miles on the car to settle every thing down, then recheck the engine/trans mounting bolts and fit the bars with the car sitting on all 4 wheels. The reason for this is if you install the bars with out the engine and transmission in place then the frame horns may not be in there correct place and buy fitting the bars once you have installed the engine and trans you may be inadvertently preloading the bars. And because I don’t like looking like a goose I just checked CSP’s website and looked at the instructions for there “torque bar” and they actually say there is no need to preload the bars, Its quite a good set of instructions. http://www.csp-shop.de/technik/pdf/deeng/20917.pdf Anyhow I must go, the wife is calling
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Scott 1971 2.5L Subaru powered 1302s http://vw1302rsi.multiply.com/ |
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