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  #1  
Old September 20th 2006, 19:15
zeroaxe zeroaxe is offline
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Ricola,

Thanks for the tip. Yeah, I wouldnt have used a 12mm stud/lug nut if the hole in the wheel was 14mm for example. Just if I had the option to use 12mm studs/lug nuts, I would've made sure that I had a wheel to suit. But thanks anyway for reminding me.

As you say about the press studs. someone else also said that they dont need to be press fitted. "Just fit them and bolt them down" I was told. I would need to know the hole size(Down to the Micro reading) to make sure the holes arent drilled too big. I would've thought that 13.5mm or so would be the right size?

Thanks for posting.

BTW, fantastic progress that you made/are making on the Phantom!!
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  #2  
Old September 21st 2006, 03:42
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ricola ricola is offline
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Thanks

13.5mm would be way too small, it would take a massive amount of force to press the stud in. A good guess would be to measure the diameter of the bottom of the 'teeth' on the stud and add a bit, it should only be fractions of a mm smaller than the max stud diameter. You should be able to look up press fit tables for exact numbers..

Rich
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  #3  
Old September 21st 2006, 03:55
zeroaxe zeroaxe is offline
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nice one! I am going to try and get my hands on some studs first before any drilling is going to take place.
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  #4  
Old September 21st 2006, 08:25
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So, If I understand correctly, you are redrilling stock 4-130 drums/disks to Porsche pattern? There isn't enough meat in the new holes to tap for the 14mm wheel bolts. I spotface the back and then press in the studs. It's the only way I do 'redrills', helps me sleep at night.

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  #5  
Old September 21st 2006, 19:35
zeroaxe zeroaxe is offline
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I didnt understand the term "Spotface" so I did a Google and found this. As I understand another word for it is "Countersink", correct? From what I can see on the net regarding spotface tools, is that instead of using a normal drill and do the countersink, one uses a 'flat' drill (like in the pic below) to do a nice and flat 'countersink', correct?


Thanks!
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  #6  
Old September 21st 2006, 19:43
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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You got it :agree: . They also make counter bores w/pilot. The pilot goes in the hole as a centering tool so, the tool doesn't "walk" on you.
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  #7  
Old September 22nd 2006, 05:23
zeroaxe zeroaxe is offline
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Wheyhey, at last I am learnign something!

So....This is what I think the order of drillinig should be, please correct me if I am wrong.
1. Drill pilot holes according to new stud layout. Use the appropriate size drill, same as the pilot drill on the Spotface tool.
2. After drilling, spotface the holes making use of the pilot drill.
3. Drill final holes, 14mm.

This method seems the most logical to me. The way I see it is that if the pilot drill is much smaller as the drilled hole, the spotface bit can still 'walk' a little?

Cheers!
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