Gauges

[Bugger]

Well it looks like I will get a voltmeter for the other gauge, all of the gauges are now wired up with one exception, the tach's sender is not wired up. The reason I havn't wired it up is I was wondering if there was a place up front where it could be wired up since there is a large black wire connected to the negative terminal of the ignition coil that looks like it goes to the front. If it can't be wired up in the front, how do you all get wires from the front to the back?

[freekazoid]

I thought the tach was supposed to connect to terminal 1, which is the negative terminal. Not terminal 15 which has the black wire that leads to the front which is actually bringing juice from the ignition switch.

[Bugger]

You are right, I just realized that (I have the whole black negative thing in my head I need to shake that notion). I have everything else wired up on the gauges besides that one wire, and will find some creative way to get the wires from the front to the back. The gauges do look great though, I am quite pleased with my choice.

[beetle1303]

First of all getting a workshop manual is very useful. I got the Heynes one and im really satisfied.
Second, in order to have proper readings on ur gauges you will need to run seperate cables from each sender to the coresponding gauges (i assume that u went this way...). Very important is to run the extra cables in a way that they will remain away from the battery in order to minimize noise (means intefierence, but can be heard some times like a whizling/hissing noise).

About senders. i used an oil temp and oil press from the autogauge range of autometer. I got the gauges fried due to a mistake on insulating them against the dash (1303 stripped)and they short cirquited...
can remember which of the two came witha a cross piece with one male and three female threads. male in the case and on one female i got the warning light with its stock sender, on the other the temp and on the last the press sender. everything was working fine until the short...

About the wiring. I drilled a hole on the engine's firewall and run the 3 from there to the left side, under the rear seat, below the carpets, to the inside of the heater channel and got them behind the vertical carpet that is on the inside of the driver's fender well (LHD).

One thing the u can do to minimize cables is to run a common earth cable. But remember that the earth is as important as a positive or a live ( sender) cable

If you want search for my ride in the members rides section of the main screen. I think that the senders are visible

Chris

[Bugger]

Thanks, I actually just finished wiring it. I went where the factory wires go, but under the seat instead of following there impossible routing I also went under the carpet behind the seat in the rear and I drilled a .5 inch hole in the firewall and put a grommet in it. Works great! I am going to get the bug registered tommorrow so I can drive it, since I just got it up and running good enough to drive it as a dd today. What does a bug redline at? it is completly stock except for the pertonox ignitor, coil and wires.

[wrenchnride247]

Stock 1600 DP (engine codes AF,AJ,AS) redlines at 4200 rpm making 46-48 hp.

[Bugger]

Thanks, how do I find out which model my engine is? Sorry for the newbie questions, this is obviously my first bug. It seems to redline higher than that, like when I am accellerating just for it to feel and sound like time to shift without pushing it i go to like 5k rpm. I will take it easier I guess, Also my tach. seems shaky at higher rpms, like above 5k what could I do to fix this?