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  #1  
Old November 20th 2006, 22:46
Bugger Bugger is offline
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Thanks, I actually just finished wiring it. I went where the factory wires go, but under the seat instead of following there impossible routing I also went under the carpet behind the seat in the rear and I drilled a .5 inch hole in the firewall and put a grommet in it. Works great! I am going to get the bug registered tommorrow so I can drive it, since I just got it up and running good enough to drive it as a dd today. What does a bug redline at? it is completly stock except for the pertonox ignitor, coil and wires.
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  #2  
Old November 20th 2006, 23:10
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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Stock 1600 DP (engine codes AF,AJ,AS) redlines at 4200 rpm making 46-48 hp.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

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  #3  
Old November 22nd 2006, 00:24
Bugger Bugger is offline
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Thanks, how do I find out which model my engine is? Sorry for the newbie questions, this is obviously my first bug. It seems to redline higher than that, like when I am accellerating just for it to feel and sound like time to shift without pushing it i go to like 5k rpm. I will take it easier I guess, Also my tach. seems shaky at higher rpms, like above 5k what could I do to fix this?
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  #4  
Old November 22nd 2006, 04:10
freekazoid freekazoid is offline
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Type 1 engine number is stamped on the crankcase under the generator support facing the rear. The chassis number is on a plate in the front compartment and stamped on the access panel to the tunnel underneath the rear seat.
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  #5  
Old November 22nd 2006, 12:48
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wrenchnride247 wrenchnride247 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugger View Post
Thanks, how do I find out which model my engine is? Sorry for the newbie questions, this is obviously my first bug. It seems to redline higher than that, like when I am accellerating just for it to feel and sound like time to shift without pushing it i go to like 5k rpm. I will take it easier I guess, Also my tach. seems shaky at higher rpms, like above 5k what could I do to fix this?
Don't worry, factory HP and TQ numbers stop there (this is an average), but the engine will rev higher... it just doesn't make any more power.

To cancel the noise (shaky tach) you need to put a resistor ( don't remember the OHM right now) inline on your ground wire.
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1970 T1 W/MassIVe 2913cc RAT/?EFI? w/direct fire (very soon) and 915 trans

1962 SC 1776cc SP 944NA brakes, 993 wheels

VKG
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  #6  
Old November 23rd 2006, 12:13
Bugger Bugger is offline
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on the ground to the tach, not the sender wire?
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  #7  
Old November 23rd 2006, 12:35
Bugger Bugger is offline
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Okay I found the shaky gauge answer. A diode needs to be connected to the signal lead if you have points of pertonox type ignition. So the signal wire that goes from the coil to the back of the tach needs this diode. The diode is #1n4005 from radio shack or other supplier it needs to go with the silver band towards the tach in the wire. Hopefully that works, I will try it tommorrow and let you know.
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  #8  
Old November 24th 2006, 23:16
Bugger Bugger is offline
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The diode worked wonders, it smoothed it out, and now the tach says I actually do redline close to 4000 rpm which is good.
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