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#1
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Well I dont'n know if the'yre better or not. Several websites have reported that new mahle piston sets are actually cast and not forged (for example, cip1.com and aircooled.net, under hte product description). However, Mahle is doubtless a very high quality brand when it comes to aircooled pistons.
According to cip1, the AA are true forged, however they're made in China Here you can see for yourselves: http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....C%2DC10%2D5167 http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...18200773348335 http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....C%2DC10%2D5204 Note that AA are about 50 bucks cheaper. You can blame that on branding, or on quality... I really don't know about type 4 cylinder walls, but why don't you make a search on the forums on thesamba? You might find very good T4 combos in there.
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake |
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#2
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Aircooled.net sales a rebuild kit.
http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...23200766155208 everything needed except heads,case(i have a case) to build a 2007cc, which is what you guys recomended.Would that kit be a good one to buy, or would I be better off buying it all separate, well when I'm ready I mean ![]() And heads, but what would be a streetable head http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie...23200766155208 And a cam I would want a wicked idle...dont ask, I seen a video of a bug sounded like a 2 stroke jackhammer lol I liked that sound. |
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#3
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Veedub, there's another article there describin the pros and cons of different cylinder and crank setups, as well as other "internal" mods. Check http://aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resour...es/t1hpeng.htm
And i also want my engine to be as reliable as possible, and i've read that the 2007cc combo is very reliable if properly cooled (i'm planning on an external oil cooler, and running 8.5:1 CR) Sorry I meant 40x35.5 valves, and for what I've read Steve Tims makes a set of heads that's both excellent in performance and reliability. You will need all those valvetrain stuff (dual springs etc) for the hot camshaft, for reliability and to prevent valve float at high RPM. It seems to me that you were looking at cb's heads, their 044 castings are said to be very reliable. Remember that they also must be ported and polished, there's no point on using big valves on a stock port head, if you can get a p&p'd one.
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake |
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#4
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Well I've been considering the exact same kit. As for the price, is depends really on who you buy from. I've read that scat's lifters are not among the best, but their other parts are a good choice. The main con I see on this kit is that you can't get specific parts, you are stuck with what scat gives in it's kit. So, if I want an FK cam, i'd have to buy it separate, the same with 1.4 rockers, etc. You can't fine-tune it.
According to AC.net, their level 2 heads are streetable. They're 043 castings, so they are more reliable than using stock 040 or 041. A loud sound can be achieved with the cam gears, usig straight cut. I dont think an engine being that loud (as a jackhammer) on IDLE would be streetable (or street legal anyway )
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake |
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#5
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Quote:
Good point.I read on the link you gave me there streetable heads are Level 5 and Level 3, theres no level 2 by the way I didnt notice it was a Scat kit..well they got a bugpack kit but they dont come with all the parts the scat kit has and there the same prices, weird. I also seen a kit advertized in the HVW magazine that sales for around 1200 bucks but its for any size that you want, I think 800 was the starting price though. |
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#6
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Well, you're right about the heads.. my bad
Bugpack tends to be more expensive than scat in most cases, don't know why thoug. I mentioned I was considering the volkstroker kit but I'm not a fan of buying kits now, ever since i discovered serrano's. There I can buy whatever parts i want for the price of a Kit. Maybe he even sells kits, but i haven't asked. It's a store that sells parts via thesamba.com classifieds. They sell good quality parts at extremely low prices. However, the main advantage from aircooled.net is the excellent support that John Conolly offers, from what i've read. Check this link, it's a search on thesamba that shows serrano's articles. HERE
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake |
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#7
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Quote:
)thnx for the useful links!
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'72 Squareback - 'The Pinkback' |
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#8
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Anybody know of any other sites that sells full engine rebuild kits like aircooled.net does? But, in that same range of 1200.00 or close?
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#9
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check www.cip1.com they have several kits there
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake |
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#10
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I know you guys recommended a 2007cc, which is cool
and I know about the issues with slip in pistons, but my foots not heavy, a stroker would give me a heavy foot though So I was wondering if a 1641 or 1680cc would be a reliable motor with balls with the right heads and setup.I was reading about the head in Aircooled.net and was thinking about there Level 5 heads with a cam and rockers combined to get a .450-.500 lift and was wondering what you guys thought. I know its a small motor but if it reved to like 6k would it be ok?I just always have liked little motors with a big bite, I guess its because I'm used to seeing the guys my age around in my area with small motors with nice takeoff.I dont want it for racing, just something that can get up and go when I need it. ![]() forgot to mention heres the kit I was looking at http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....10%2D5000%2DKT |
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#11
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Well you certainly can have a lil' engine that bites, but there goes reliability. You won't get 150k miles if you rev it to 6k rpm often. Why don't you consider a 1776 (90.5 x 69). It's relatively small, 1.8, and it sure can bite at 6.5k rpm with proper heads.
I'd say that if you must rev it better go with 1776. Same thickness as stock, unlike slip-ins. Just what i think ... And my foot IS heavy with my 100% stock 1584cc i get about 20 mpg at best
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________________________ 1990 Mex-Spec GL Bug "The Blue Flame": Engine: Planning Stage Transmission: Planning Stage Suspension: Front: 3/4 swaybar w/UrethaneBushings, Dropped Spindles. Rear:CB Camber Compensator. Lowered 2 splines Brakes: Front Brakes: 280mm solid rotors, two pot calipers. Rear: 280mm solid rotors, 1 pot calipers w/ebrake |
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#12
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Quote:
maybe rev to 5k and shift..
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