what would the hp be?

[Veedub]

Thanks chris, yeah I agree bout there no need for a c/w crank but I was getting a forged one just in case.The stock fuel pump will be ditched, anyone in particular I should get?And about the dizzy Im going to get the Pertronics Ignitor II non vac, its a dizzy, and coil, and wires.And for carbs I was thinking 40IDF's but not with velocity stacks, I'd think it would be easy to suck in water that way.
Lightened Flywheel you would recomend, would I need a bigger fuel sump, maybe?

[Astromic]

ok, i think reliability also could be improved by fine-selecting your cam, i read before that you must choose a high duration cam not a high lift one(relatively), because high lift cams put more stress into the valvetrain wich will decrease the overall life of the engine, for example scat c-35 has .410" Lift & 286 Degree Duration, Engle w-110 has .430"Lift & 284 Degrees Duration, they both have close duration, but engle has a higher lift, that means is make more strees on the valvtrain. also the lope shape decides that, sharp lopes is faster to push, so it is also not good for the engine...
i'm not sure about informations about valvetrain stress, as i only read it but not experienced it yet in the real world, so if any one knows better please correct me...

beetle1303,
do u know any site talking about balancing the crank? i only have sites contains articles about balancing the rods and the pistons, but don't have any talking about the crank, i want somthing good as i'm doing the job my own, thank's in advance...<<veedub, sorry for hijacking your post >>

Michael

[EvilAngel]

Thanks for the info veedub. I think that cam will give a better reliability, for what i've read it lessens the stress on the valvetrain, exactly as Michael says. As a matter of fact i've read just yesterday htat it is indeed a very important factor of reliability on strokers. I agree with the lightened flywheel. I think that if you can afford the crank, go for it. It does no bad, and it certanily can stand more abuse than a stock c/w. As for the sump, there's been a lot of discussion on this topic, and it doesn't really keep the engine cooler, it just make it take longer to warm up. However, it can prevent oil starvation under some circumstances

Michael: I agree 100% with you, EFI is the way to go, but it's extremely expensive, specially since i've seen new webers 44 idf at about 700 on thesamba. As for cooling, i plan on 043's as cb's "regular" 044's don't seem ported, they just seem to have big valves, and their ported versions are a bit expensive for my budget. Also, i've read steve tims' heads are very well done, and they're affordable. And about cooling, i plan on keeping my stock shroud and thermostat, and install a temp sensor on cylinder #3 (this is the hottest) if i see temp's too high i will have to save for a DTM shroud. And my car came stock with electronic ignition

[Veedub]

EvilAngel, I asked some people over in the CLF forumabout the combo of the 1776/2007 we are wanting, if I can say we
And they said that the L5 heads would be overkill with a 1776cc but with a 2007 it would be fine.
Anyway I got a combo from them for a 1904cc which is 90.5x74
90.5 stroker pistons (not sure if there forged though, from thesamba is where they said to get them)- found some for 148.00
Ceramic coated 1 5/8 header exhaust (from thesamba)- 155.00
74mm DPR crankshaft (from thesamba)- 250.00
VW Journal I-Beam forged con-rods (from thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 75.00
VW journal bearings (thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 8.00
Chromoly Gland nut 36mm, 42mm, 44mm (thesamba, same ad as the 74mm crank)- 12.00
044 Super Mag CNC Round Port Heads w/ 40x35.5 S/S valves (42x37 is optional) CNC porting, Dual Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers, Hardened Valve locks- 605.95 for pair
Stock flywheel (if you want a new one) - 63.95
Eagle Racing cam- Adv Duration .286"/ Dur. @ .050" .240"/ Lift @ Cam .430"/ Lift w/ 1.1:1 rocker arms .473 (equal to and Engle W110) - 74.95
High Compacity 1.5qt Oil Sump- 69.99

There was a few guys there that say CB Performances heads were the best, and also told me not to cheap out on stuff i cant spend 800 bucks for a crank, sorry my budget wont allow me to, even though i am single. thats just to much to me.

PS. I still think the sec. combo i made seems better, i donno, theres could be better though.

[EvilAngel]

Well i think that's a nice combo. However, i'd add a chromoly lightened flywheel to your selection. I agree that spending 800 bucks for a crank is just silly, only makes sense if you have extremely deep pockets, which we don't. CB is known for having excellent heads, really among the very best, and i believe thos 044s will be as good as it gets for what we want. For a 1904 i would have a engle 120 or equivalent with 1.1:1 rockers, and dont forget the rocker arm thingies (cant remember the name right now) they look like screws, and you'll have to upgrade them as well. The main advantage of the 1904 is that it will run cooler than a 2007 and yet it'll be much torquier than a 1776. You may run a higher CR on a 1904, sacrificing some heat to get a little more power. I have a friend with a 1904, and he says it's a very nice combo. He beats mustang gt's at the dragstrip with that. And it's his daily driver

[Veedub]

Originally Posted by EvilAngel

Well i think that's a nice combo. However, i'd add a chromoly lightened flywheel to your selection. I agree that spending 800 bucks for a crank is just silly, only makes sense if you have extremely deep pockets, which we don't. CB is known for having excellent heads, really among the very best, and i believe thos 044s will be as good as it gets for what we want. For a 1904 i would have a engle 120 or equivalent with 1.1:1 rockers, and dont forget the rocker arm thingies (cant remember the name right now) they look like screws, and you'll have to upgrade them as well. The main advantage of the 1904 is that it will run cooler than a 2007 and yet it'll be much torquier than a 1776. You may run a higher CR on a 1904, sacrificing some heat to get a little more power. I have a friend with a 1904, and he says it's a very nice combo. He beats mustang gt's at the dragstrip with that. And it's his daily driver

beating mustangs? wow that would be nice. Using a 74mm crank would you by chance know what all he needed to do to the motor to get that crank in? The 90.5mm pistons I know would take machine work but the 74 crank i was told is just a slip in, but how true that is, is a question I'm wondering.

[EvilAngel]

Well he said he had to do just a little bit of clerancing, but for what i've read it depends on the crank. Some will slip in, some will need clearance. It depends on the size of the couterweights

[beetle1303]

Originally Posted by Veedub

Thanks chris, ....And about the dizzy Im going to get the Pertronics Ignitor II non vac, its a dizzy, and coil, and wires.And for carbs I was thinking 40IDF's but not with velocity stacks, I'd think it would be easy to suck in water that way.

anyway i was browsing the thread, and thought u meant that with the stalks water can find an easier route into the carbs and eventually the engine... ( assummed no air filters are used) then i said that i have run my beetle without air filters for a while (few days until i recieved my airfilters) and ive been extra super careful about water and driving conditions (dust, moist etc) cas particles small enough can find their way into the engine and be the cause of unneccessay faults and overhauls....

it could just be silly me, tired, with a bit more alcohol in my system etc....

Chris