what would the hp be?

[EvilAngel]

Yes, that's exactly the way i'm doing it....

[Veedub]

just throw up your ideas, what are you wanting, anyway, just curious.

[EvilAngel]

Well, i'm planning the 2007cc setup mentioned above, with minor changes for durabilty. However since i have to pay A LOT for shipping i have to do it gradually. Plus i'm still waiting for my rear discs, camber comp and front swaybar to arrive. when i have all of that installed i will start to buy the engine stuff. I know that after a while, my 2007 won't be enough, and then i'll go for the turbo, and/or EFI. that's why i chose some things to have the turbo later, like I-beams instead of h-beams, etc. Right now im trying to find out what kind of heads i have. If they're 043's i will just P&P them. If they are 040 or 041's, i'd rather get a brand new set ---> $$$
I really like the EFI idea, since i got a carputer, and it would be cool to tune it from the dashboard touschscreen

[Veedub]

EvilAngel, we could go the "simple" route.Small displacement but big power.
forged 85.5 pistons cylenders
C/w forged 69mm crank (74mm possibly?)
stock pushrods
stock cam or cheater cam
1.4:1 forged rockers
forged I-beam rods
044 MAGNUM with 40 x 35.5mm S/S valves, Dual Super Rev Springs, Chromoly Retainers, & Sure-Grip Locks (STD. Bore)
then mat davis or lowbuggets turbokit

I seen somewhere, where there was a 1600T that made 126hp with 10psi, but dont remember where though.According to the guys from the STF forums, the 1600T is very reliable if you dont go out and race it and rev it all to hell and back(but i think thats any motor)

[EvilAngel]

Revving. That's the issue. I really don't want a car that requires a lot of revving to start to show some juice. And, as you say, revving to get power will increase wear, and therefore reduce reliability. That's why i decided to get a stroker. Plus i don't see much point on using 85.5 cylinders, being 90.5 just as reliable.

I understand your point, getting a smaller yet powerful engine. But that means less torque. And torquey engines are by far more fun to drive everyday.

On a final note, not only is the 2007 cheaper to build, but it still leaves room for some improvement in the future, like adding the turbo... If we went the 1600t route, the only thing we could do later (other than fine tuning or adding boost) would be increasing the displacement...
2007cc N/A --> 140hp (guesstimation)
2007 T --->

[Veedub]

I think I may build a small displacement motor (remember I was a jap car fan) so i like small displacement big power in a way Mostly because the guy thats going to help build my motor does not want to really build a hi po motor.He dont want to be the one put the blame on if something goes wrong with the motor, which I understand.He's known my dad since before i existed on earth :so hes trustworthy, hes like and uncle.
Im thinking either a 1600cc 85.5x69 forged, 87x69 (yes im very aware)
What would a 85.5x74 be? a 1699cc? With a turbo they dont got to rev extremely high to make power which is cool. I think turbo kicks in at 1800rpms with them.

[EvilAngel]

Yes, that's the displacement. And i'd say that it all depends on how you set up the turbo. Lower boost and a wider power band seems the way to go.
BTW, i also had a b15 sentra before, but it was a GSX auto, no performance to squeeze from it. And vdubs are WAY cheaper to mod.
Only thing is that in Mexico no one respects them... but that makes for a perfect sleeper...