180hp 1.8t in Bug

[ricola]

That's awesome news, really happy for you! Always a relief when they fire up for the first time..

Rich

[Panelfantastic]

FREAKIN' AWESOME!!

More video! Rev it, get some drive bys.

What turned out to be the glitch on getting it fired the first go round?

SUHWEEET!


Jeff-

[volkdent]

Thanks guys!!! I really appreciate the support you've given me all along for this project, as crazy as it is!

Jeff, the problem was that they didn't include a wire with the harness!!! I called them up and he's like "Oh, there's no wire there?" and I'm like "ah, no" and he's says, "Well there's yur prablem!". So, just put a jumper in from IGNSW to INJSW and whamo, she turned over for a bit, I think the computer was doing something and just slowly it started.

This site is acting funny, the answers you guys gave yesterday I just saw today, but I've looked at it a couple times since then.

I'll do the hole in the thermostat if I need to, but it seems to be running OK right now.

What do you guys think the fan turn on temp should be? That sensor is just coming out of the head, so that is water head temp basically. I can adjust the turn on by individual degrees on the software, so really it's wherever we decide to put it.

Jason

[GS guy]

That's great news Jason. Man you're gonn'a have one of the baddest Beetles around! Now git that thang on a skid-pad so we can get a full report on all the trick suspension!

But seriously, got to be a great feeling to have the car move under it's own power. That's seriously Cool!

Now where ya hid'in the radiator??? Don't see it in any of the car pics.

Sounds like you've gotten the cooling all worked out. I'd get more seat time in it before making any changes. Water temps should be around 190F???

Jeff

[Panelfantastic]

I kept trying to cool my Eco down too much. It would see the cool temp and go to closed loop and fatten everything up. better try to stay close to whatever normal temps are for 1.8s. 195-205??

[volkdent]

I think it's in Celsius or Farenheit, I can't remember which is the small numbers, but the ECU measures in the small numbers. In the Bentley manual it lists the big and the small numbers in parenthesis, or maybe I just have it set WAY to low. On the ECU program's virtual dashboard it has the small numbers too, and it goes into the yellow zone at like 90 and red at like 100, so I figure it uses the small number system. I feel kinda dumb for not knowing which is which, but growing up in Canada then living in the US my numbers are all mixed up anyway...

Jason

[volkdent]

Originally Posted by GS guy

Now where ya hid'in the radiator??? Don't see it in any of the car pics.

With the thinness of the front plate of the A-arm suspension there is actually space between the front of the frame and the back of the spare tire well, part of the reason I wanted to switch to a different front end setup. If you look back through the pics you'll see where the rad sits. I cut the outer edges out of the body so the rad extends beyond the body slightly, although the plan was to have it all contained, I wasnt' that great with measuring. Air will be forced through it like in the new Corvettes, small opening ducting through a large radiator. Much of the air going under the car will be forced through the radiator by a plastic lower lip that runs the width of the front of the car, and about half of that width will be ducting into the radiator. Think of an air funnel that's not so obvious! I just hope it works....I'm going to leave it as a flat plane for now, and if I need more cooling at speed, I'm going to cut it in 2 places so the plane area in front of the rad area is hinged. I'll then get some small cables attached to the leading edge of that plane, kinda looking like those braces on the front lip of the COT NASCRAP cars. These cables will go through holes drilled into the spare tire well floor. From the floor up these cables will go through springs and finally have stops on them. At city speeds, the springs will keep the cables pulled up, out of the reaches of speed bumps, driveways, and rough roads. As the speeds increase, usually the road smooths out so clearance is less of an issue(in a perfect world), and the hinging plane will drop from air pressure to the stops, creating a larger funnel area, and it will trap and gather more air as it's needed. Think of a poor mans/passive version of those active intakes on the top back sides of the Veyron and Murcielago. If these are even needed, I won't know without testing, but I could also lock them out in the winter when temps are cooler and roads are poorer and then take out the locks for summer use. These are the ramblings of a crazy man, but at least they are well thought out...

Jason

[GS guy]

That's pretty innovative tucking the radiator up under the front like that. It should work (in my mind anyway) ALA you've got the front side sealed to the inlet air opening and lower high-pressure creating flap under the car. I gather that's what the flanges around the perimeter of the rad are for. And leave plenty of exhaust room on the backside!

FWIW, *F-*C, generally F is about double the C number: so 100C would be close to 200F (212F). The exact calculation is F = (C x 1.8) +32, or C = 0.56 x (F - 32). That's according to my old physics book.
I've got an old TI-60 calculator that worth it's weight in gold to me - as it has all the english - metric conversions built in at the push of a button!
Jeff