1952 GL update thread

[NO_H2O]

As far as the oil plumbing goes. I would bend up a pair of 1/2" ridged stainless lines (heavy gauge) to run from front to rear and use shorter lengths of hose at either end. The pressure flux and cooling will be better with a ridged line
Here is a pic of 3/8 lines for fuel but it is the same idea.

[petevw]

Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete

[yetibone]

Originally Posted by petevw

Thanks for the comments. I had a fuel hose burst on the super the night before a criuse, what a mess. Was thinking the stainless braided would offer better protection, especially from the shift rod that moves around in the tunnel. I'm liking Dave's idea. Stainless pipe, with hose ends for flexability. How to secure inside the tunnel? I'll look at it today.

Pete

I secured my oil lines with a rectangular shaped washer from one of the pan bolts. Drilled a hole thru the tunnel, and sent a bolt thru the washer to hold the lines up against the side of the tunnel.

I can't post a pic of it for some reason...

[Humble]

Man what is it with you and J-tubes? Sweet project though, got any updated shots of the rest of the car? I'm really diggin' the atv stand for the motor and tranny, have you tried using it to get the drive train in and out of the car? Stainless or aluminum hard line is the way to go for fuel and oil to the front of the car. The easiest way to secure it is to use adel rubber insulated clamps which can be found in hardware stores or aircraft supply shops.

[petevw]

Hey Humble, i haven't used the stand for an install. My friend did a couple weeks ago for his '61. He said it was a real pain, and won't do it again. The motor was to secure. He couldn't move it around easily to get it lined up with the trans. I find with a regular pump jack, you can manhandle the longblock wherever you want.

Took a look inside the tunnel. 2 fuel, and 2 oil lines will be very tight around the nosecone of the 5spd. I'll grab a few small pipes tommorrow and see how/where they can fit in there.

Pete

[petevw]

Main wiring harness is now installed. There is only 1 guy that makes these pre-52 harnesses in his garage. He starts making them only when he gets a few orders. Harness is PVC wire, soldered, and cloth braided. Same as OEM. About 2yrs in the making, that was installed in January '09.

Pulled nylon twine throughout body to use as pullcords.











I included some tricks of my own. Ceramic resistors to drop to 6V for the semaphores, that were found after looking in a few electronic junkyards around town. Rear tailights are dual circuit for running and brake lights. Need to terminate the rear lights, and headlights when installed.

Pete

[NO_H2O]

Originally Posted by petevw

Took a look inside the tunnel. 2 fuel, and 2 oil lines will be very tight around the nosecone of the 5spd. I'll grab a few small pipes tommorrow and see how/where they can fit in there.

Pete

If you have some line bending skills, you can bend the lines to tuck up in the body mounting bolt channel to run from front to rear and clamp them securly using some tabs at each body mount bolts. The pic I posted above was of a 912 that does not have the channel. I ran mine (fuel line) in the right channel so it would be protected. I will have to do 2 oil lines (1/2 inch) on the left side of mine when the oil cooler goes in the front bumper/spoiler. The heavy stainless is hell to flare for AN fittings. I bent everything then took it to a hydraulic shop to have them flared.

[Humble]

Pete, I was thinking of using the atv stand to remove the engine and tranny as an assembly rather than one at a time. It could make life simpler when I need to pull them out of the race car for re-work.