Dave's 1971 1302 Not-So-Secret, Secret Project Build

[owdlvr]

Don't worry guys, after giving it about 30seconds of thought from the original couple of posts I realized the bar was a no-go. Initially I thought I'd bolt it up for now and fix it once the engine is in, but then realized the oil cooler would be in the way. Thus, I've been digging my engine and heater boxes from storage so that I can rework what I have.

This is one of the reasons for posting up the build in a thread like this, find the problems before I'm committed to them!

Originally Posted by judgie

I run a dry sump set up and even with the tank in the front of the car i have never had any start up presure issuses. i think the acusump is a extra that dont need to be in the system. why carry more wieght and the extra places for leaks?

It's not about having start-up pressure issues, it's about being able to pressurize the engine before you even turn the key. The accusump eliminates those first few seconds of cranking where the oil pump hasn't built up oil pressure yet. Open the valve, and almost instantly the engine is at whatever pressure you shut the valve off at.

Originally Posted by judgie

the kafer brace that you have on your car is a poor design, sorry. if your running coil over rear then i would strongly sujest you run a 5 bar brace as the loads that will be fed into the top shock mounts is going to be very high. i would brace the top shock mounts like the class 11 Baja cars do for peace of mind. you dont want to be bending or brakeing them.
car looks great by the way

The possibility of a 5-bar brace was eliminated due to retaining the factory heat...but perhaps I'll revisit that now that I'm tossing the engine in and going custom anyways. The class-11 setups I've seen all mount the shock inside the body to the roll bar. Ideal, sure, but I didn't want to cut the body up.

I'm going to futz around with the welder and come to comfort with my compromises :P

Thanks guys!

-Dave