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#1
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Good morning, if you stay stock, your stock parts work fine. But if you go up in bore, stroke, and compression you are going to start seeing leaks; probably first around the crank. Not sure if you are talking type one, if you are, normally the type one does not have a crank seal.
For me getting the blow-by addressed from different locations aid in total size. That blow-by gasses can be hot, without the aluminum steel wool,, the hot oil vapors can get out causing a mess at wherever the blow-by container is located. Why the valve covers, its just another place that can be tapped without drilling into your case. My car, a 2332 type one, I had not added valve cover vents, just the stock location. My car did leak from the crank, due to new cylinders, not yet mated rings, higher compression. If you choose venting to the carb (carbs), which one? Or are you going to "t" the two? Not venting will cause a mess. If I can use -8 in several locations all the better. |
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#2
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I do not agree.
The stock T1 breather box is superior to both boxes mentioned in this thread. Basic math will tell you why. It does not matter what size your engine is. The stock box is, on the other hand, not race legal. Opening the valve covers will only allow the oil a new way of escaping and nothing else. The pressure is not created there and that is why you should not vent there. The oil will always follow the easist route and if the oil is not allowed back to the case where it belongs via the usual 4 escape routes (your pushrod tubes) it will escape via your breather tube. Not good. I stopped venting the valve covers some years ago and I have not experienced any issues at all. But then again I do make sure I vent where it is needed and where the pressure is created. Take a close look at this Pauter engine case and note where it breaths: -BB- Quote:
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#3
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This engine is not a daily driver, what's your application? I think I'll stop here until I find this out.
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#4
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Hay where did you go? I deleted one response, I have waited for further info. I don't think it's fair to refer to a breather box, that's really intended for mild high performance; and show a fire breathing beasty. One thing I can see is the engine is aluminumn, so ease of repair/mods are possible. You don't think valve cover vents are of much good huh? I note that, your engine has basically two dash 12 vents.
No mention of the compression ratio,or boost settings? Let say for the sake of arm chair blow-by philosophy 101. I believe by using 2 dash 8 vents coming from each side of the valve covers. And the normal vent at the alt stand, and just maybe fugging a little and say there is also electronic crank fire ignition; so you take advantage of a forth hole, a dash 16. collectively I believe that it will be more efficient than your dual blow-by tubes. By not stating all the facts, it won't be very helpful im trying to get a good answer |
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#5
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I posted the picture of the 750hp Pauter engine just to show you where you should breath. The pressure is created inside your crank case and if you let it breath there that is all you need. Let us agree upon one thing: the pressure is the same all over the engine. That goes for the crank case and the heads. If you do not have enough breathing the oil will always escape no matter what. Right? So what happens if you open up your valve covers? The only thing you do is to open up a highway for your oil to escape. The pressure is still the same. The original breather box is far superior to the other ones due to the fact that it has far more breathing capability. Here is a new picture for you of my 1641 turbo engine. As an experiment I mounted a 40mm hose to see if it puked anything at high boost. Not a single drop! Close to 400 whp at high boost and I`m only breathing from the original fuel pump and the alternator tower itself. ![]() Best rgs BB |
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#6
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Hay, one of the reasons that I favor adding the valve cover fittings, AN-8 or larger, is because there are four push rod tubes per side of engine. I'm sure you are aware of the extra diameter in each push rod tube. These are direct portals, 8 in total for blow-by to exit.
I see your tubing at the original blow-by/oil filler housing location is larger than stock. You would have actually had to remove some of the original Volkswagen blow/by pieces in order for your application to be installed. This cannot be understood as if it were stock. I think that we are all on the same page, (same understanding) whatever way that you address this. Understanding this problem and dealing with the blow-by, must be addressed if not oil leaks will occur.take care. Last edited by effvee; May 20th 2014 at 22:35. |
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#7
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So what happens if you add a breather line to your valve covers you think? Do you think that will help the oil escape through the push rod tubes? I believe not, the oil will instead follow the path of least resistance which is now your "breather" line. A breather line full of oil is not a breather line. The best breather box or vacuum pump in the world would not help if you have excess pressure due to leak down. But hey, breathing from the valve covers has been the way for the last 40 years or so.. -BB- |
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