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#1
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I do think maybe the turbo isn’t the best for my motor. I’ll drive it for a year or so and then maybe consider changing the turbo for something a little more modern. I’m running a Garrett t3/4 hybrid at the moment.
So at the moment it made max 264.9 at 16.5 psi, another couple of psi would be around the 300 mark I guess. After the woes I’ve had with it over the last year I didn’t want Greg (the chap mapping it) to push too far as I don’t want to kill it again. I put 100 miles on it today mostly back at 11 psi and had loads of fun! Hat the boost controller on a few times and it was great. In your experience Wally what sort of boost can you run to with stock head studs? |
#2
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I’d say the head studs can handle way more then you’re now, but its the stock heads that trend to worp a bit, causing leaks.
Even stock engines saw this problem. Especially buses.. Anyways, never torque the head studs more then stock in an attempt to make it seal “better”. It gets worse with more torque on the head studs then stock torque settings. Thought I’d mention that again, for others that might be tempted 😉 |
#3
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Thanks for the heads up (pun intended 😂
![]() What tricks have you used to keep the heads sealed in the past, I understand your heads are far from stock now! When I dropped a valve seat last time (18psi) we saw no evidence of the heads leaking which is good 👍 |
#4
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Quote:
Even then, I promised it was their intellectual ownership or s/th... What helps are new heads (AMC seem a slightly better alloy) and keeping the bore stock, so preferably no machining that weakens the head. Good cooling and a really good tune are also just as important (and often overlooked/mistaken). None of this is cheap though, I realize. But turbo is hp and there just is no cheap hp. |
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