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#1
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I overlaid the two dyno plots and this turbo is about the same down low, but just keeps pulling more (more torque) from 4500 rpm to 6500 rpm, while the former turbo did not make more power after 6000 rpm. But I only did two evenings road'tuning' with it, that was it. So there's probably a little more in it I suspect (but not that much) ![]() |
#2
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Way to lay it down Wally. Very nice numbers.
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NO_H2O 72 1302 Smack Black GL 73 Bus (2L CIS Powered) 66 Beetle, 73 Standard Beetle 72 Pinzgauer 710M Volksport Kafer Gruppe |
#3
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that ROCKS Wally
![]() Chris.
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74 Std. GL 08 Vw rabbit 18 WR250R 07 Chevy 3500 Dually |
#4
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Congrats Wally! Awesome results! It just keeps getting better! Torque just shoots straight up 420NM and only 16psi - fantastic!
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#5
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Wicked, great work Wally you should be closer to Canada........
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Big Daddy/ VW EGO Lets Gooooo ![]() |
#6
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if you want a bigger one then you should put a Coil and a Spark plug in the tailpipe and hook it up you would get a HUGE flame lol Chris.
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74 Std. GL 08 Vw rabbit 18 WR250R 07 Chevy 3500 Dually |
#7
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Love all your reactions!
Found a vid of a very fast dutch street-legal dragracer with an Opel Speedster, which I ran 'against' earlier this year. He runs with slicks in unlimited class. I am in a A/Street/Legal which require road legal threaded tires. In the run of this vid got a little too much smoke from the burn-out....opened the roof, but 'your not allowed to run with open roof'... I know dude, but can't you see the smoke thats blinding me? Maybe thats not safe to run with either huh? ![]() He had to laugh about it then as well fortunately ![]() http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uXUP...eature=channel Last edited by Wally; November 17th 2009 at 19:15. |
#8
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nice
im sure u said some where already. but what tires are u running they seem to hook up well |
#9
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Xellex: sorry, can't help you there.. |
#10
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Wally, excuse me for asking, but do you by any chance, have a spare trigger wheel like the one that you are using? Or maybe can have one more of those made? I'll pay for it
![]() Oh, and nice vids, btw!
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www.vw1303s.com |
#11
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2500 euros won´t get you far on an aircooled motor.Depending on what you can do yourself and how good your existing parts are and if you have a complete motor,you may be able to build a longblock without the fan assembly and throttlebodies for that.Fan and throttlebodies can cost up to 1600 Euros alone, a proper engine Management like DTA or KMS will run you another 1000 euros without the wire bundle.Megasquirt is another option and will be a bit cheaper.Proper headwork is pricey if you don´t have the means to do it yourself.Then you have the turbo,wastegate,bov,intercooler,hoses,fittings,etc .it adds up quickly...
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#12
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1967 Bug |
#13
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Just drag race, that would be much more easy and hence less expensive. If you want to basterdize your car by using a japanese watercooled engine, be my guest. I am sure it will be much less expensive. If you think that is worth it, go right ahead. My fun is to make an aircooled car fast and last. using a watercooled engine to make it fast is soooo easy, its no fun and no surprise for anybody.. To each his own I guess ![]() It was (and will be) nice to have met you anyways ![]() ![]() |
#14
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Subaru STI is a very similar engine to VW AC. They even work with Porsche on development of new parts/engines. But, ofcourse, it's not that cool as aircooled engine. We all know that. My point: the only thing that somebody can basterdize on their Bug is badly engineer it. Good engineering is good engineering. No matter is it aircooled or else. I really admire Your car. I didn't said it's made of cheap parts. I just compare it with Remmele, MassIVe Type4 and that kind of stuff. Looking at their performance/price ratio, Your engine is - cheap. In no offensive meaning, sorry if You took that wrong... This is why I ask how much Your engine costs with your knowledge and skills.
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1967 Bug |
#15
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Yes, I know mate; I just feel it a shame to put a watercooled engine in it for all the simple reasons I just mentioned. I'd rather run a nice solid type 1 than a jap watercooler.
But thats entirely my take on what I like. No offense and thanks for the kind words on my engine. Make no mistake though, its not cheap at all, but mainly because I 'overdo' things internally. There IS a reason it runs so cool and stays in one piece, but maybe it wasn't neccesary what I have all done. I probably overdid some parts, which made it more expensive than nessesary. I dunno, but I have little room for constant failures to find out if... Thanks, Walter Edit: to (not) answer your question anbout costs: I am sure you can (and probably have) add up parts cost for a n/a type 4 in a bug. Even doing that you must have noticed that even a tuned type 1 is not much less expensive (you can hardly use the word 'cheap' with these hobbies) when done right than a second hand suby engine. Not much point trying to compare that. Even then, you still will have spend a very decent sum of money and a **** load of work after your suby engine fits, runs and cools well and you still have a jap watercooled engine in your bug after all that... I dunno, it just doesn't ever seem justified im(h)o. But hey, since you asked me ;-) But in all honesty, you did not really think I went to the trouble to keep account of all costs over all these years of executing my hobby did you? Last edited by Wally; December 15th 2009 at 16:07. |
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