Blizzard's rolling rebuild of a 1303 1975

[H2OSB]

Wow, awesome mods! I'm going to steal some of your ideas for my someday upcoming 2056. I have a set of those lower cylinder tins already.

[Blizzard]

Like I mentioned before the idea of the cooling tins is not mine. I just thougt it would be helpfull to share this idea again.
Another thing I did to improve airflow/cooling of the heads is remove all the casting imperfections and blockages between the cooling fins on the new heads, using a 1mm. thin cutoffdisk on an angle grinder, a drill and dremel tool.

[Blizzard]

For the first time I have over 200 horsepower in my car.
To bad I can only use half of it at once.



When everything was bolted on and connected again, it started on the first try, and runs perfect. I have no photographic evidence it was to dark.
AFR is in the high 13s at low and high rev's with the current jets. I think I will only change the accelerator pump jets from 33 to 35.
When I open the gas quickly on the test stand it revs up without running lean with the 33"s. The first time in the car, it ran lean while accelerating with the 33 accelerator pump jets installed.

venturi 32 try 30
main jets 125
Idle jets 52 try 55
air corrector jets 180
emulsion tube 9164.2
accelerator pump jets 33 try 35

Now I want to install the engine asap in the car and start finetuning with the DRLA's under load and with a warm engine.

I also have a set of italian 40 IDF's I want to test

[Blizzard]

Out with the old(er)



I with the (re)new(ed)

[Blizzard]

April 1st.
No joke, it runs and drives super smooth, lots more torq than the Type-1 1904cc..

I started with reamed 47 idle jets reamed to 55. The AFR was good but the engine was not running even on all cylinders.

I measured these jets and they were all differend in size. If I would make them as big as the biggest one the engine would run to rich.

The other jets I have are 52 and 58 Idle jets. The 52 were around 15 and the 58 idle jets around 12 on the AEM Air fuel gauge

I could borrow a jet reamer set from a friend and started to enlarge the 52 idle jets in very small increments until the gauge was showing numbers in the high 13's.
When driving at a constant RPM there was a small dip around 3200 rpm at the transition between the idle circuit and the main jets.
I adjusted the float hight from the starting point of 6mm. to 5.5mm. and the dip was gone.

I will post a youtube link later to show how constant the AFR is from 1000 to 4500 rpm

Very happy with the result.

[Blizzard]

When I'm done with testing carburators and no longer need the AEM gauge and o2 sensor in the exhaust I will replace the CSP Python with the GPP exhaust.

Before I could install that exhaust I had to do some tedious but important mods. First I matched the inside opening of the copper gasket rings to the exhaust pipe.



Now all 4 gaskets have the same size as the exhaust pipe mating surface



On one of the exhaust pipes the mating surface was not completly flat.
On the picture below you can see it almost done, there is still some black marker visible.



And on one side the pipes were not perfectly parallel to each other so I spend half an hour doing this.
Just like Jeff often said on homebuild by Jeff on youtube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jfPmTOin29w

MORE SANDING.. YAY!!.



I did a leak test with an aircompressor and some soapy water and it's leak free.

[Wally]

Nice job! I like the oilcooler positioning in the front spoiler a lot as well.