Blizzard's rolling rebuild of a 1303 1975

[Blizzard]

Made some progress with the 2056cc Type 4

Ahnendorp 71mm couterweight crank

Ahnendorp heads with 41/34mm valves

44mm Weber IDF's

GPP exhaust













Still alot to do. My goal is to have this motor in the car this summer

[Wally]

Nice parts! I especially like the (looks of it) biral cylinders.

[Blizzard]

Thats correct. 96mm. Biral cylinders, JE pistons with 22mm. piston pins.

[Blizzard]

Ignition setup

123 ignition tune+ distributor, see link for more info.
https://123ignition.com/product/tuneplus-4-r-v-v/

silicone spark plug wires made to length

MSD Blaster-2 coil (mounted on firewall next to CSP crankcase vent box)

[Blizzard]

Some photos of the 1971cc Type-4 build.

I started with removing the old oil galley plugs and tapping them for NPT plugs.



A NOS cranckshaft that I had ballanced with a 200mm. flywheel



cc'ed the CU-heads



Set deck height on new Mahle flat top piston and cylinder set



Because I used 1700cc rockers in combination with 8mm. swivel ball valve adjustment screws (I will come back to this later),
I had to make new longer pushrods for the correct rocker geometry.
To make it easier to turn the camshaft/crank I used lighter pressure springs.



And made my own adjustable pushrod



After testing and installing the correct jets in the DRLA carburators



I was the proud owner/builder of a smooth running type-4

https://i.imgur.com/eAs18TT.mp4

The reason that I replaced the 1971cc type-4 with the 1904cc type-1 is it

left a smoke screen worthy of a bond car after only running for 100 kilometers.

The cause of the failure was a locknut that came loose of one of the swivel ball valve adjustment screws,

I am afraid to use these again. I am 100% sure I tightend all the locknuts.

With the locknuts loose the adjustment screws are very loose inside the rockers and can move side to side.

Is there enybody else who had this happen??

The nut became stuck between a rocker and the cylinderhead, breaking a piece out of the bottom of the head.

Resulting in a massive oil leak on to the exhaust

[Blizzard]

I rebuild it with new CJ heads before I started with the 2056cc. in januari.

It is now ready to test start and install and hopefully this time run longer than 100 kilometers.

[H2OSB]

Wow, awesome mods! I'm going to steal some of your ideas for my someday upcoming 2056. I have a set of those lower cylinder tins already.

[Blizzard]

Like I mentioned before the idea of the cooling tins is not mine. I just thougt it would be helpfull to share this idea again.
Another thing I did to improve airflow/cooling of the heads is remove all the casting imperfections and blockages between the cooling fins on the new heads, using a 1mm. thin cutoffdisk on an angle grinder, a drill and dremel tool.

[Blizzard]

For the first time I have over 200 horsepower in my car.
To bad I can only use half of it at once.



When everything was bolted on and connected again, it started on the first try, and runs perfect. I have no photographic evidence it was to dark.
AFR is in the high 13s at low and high rev's with the current jets. I think I will only change the accelerator pump jets from 33 to 35.
When I open the gas quickly on the test stand it revs up without running lean with the 33"s. The first time in the car, it ran lean while accelerating with the 33 accelerator pump jets installed.

venturi 32 try 30
main jets 125
Idle jets 52 try 55
air corrector jets 180
emulsion tube 9164.2
accelerator pump jets 33 try 35

Now I want to install the engine asap in the car and start finetuning with the DRLA's under load and with a warm engine.

I also have a set of italian 40 IDF's I want to test

[Blizzard]

Out with the old(er)



I with the (re)new(ed)

[Blizzard]

April 1st.
No joke, it runs and drives super smooth, lots more torq than the Type-1 1904cc..

I started with reamed 47 idle jets reamed to 55. The AFR was good but the engine was not running even on all cylinders.

I measured these jets and they were all differend in size. If I would make them as big as the biggest one the engine would run to rich.

The other jets I have are 52 and 58 Idle jets. The 52 were around 15 and the 58 idle jets around 12 on the AEM Air fuel gauge

I could borrow a jet reamer set from a friend and started to enlarge the 52 idle jets in very small increments until the gauge was showing numbers in the high 13's.
When driving at a constant RPM there was a small dip around 3200 rpm at the transition between the idle circuit and the main jets.
I adjusted the float hight from the starting point of 6mm. to 5.5mm. and the dip was gone.

I will post a youtube link later to show how constant the AFR is from 1000 to 4500 rpm

Very happy with the result.

[Clatter]

Love this build.. Thanks for taking the time to post up.

[Blizzard]

There is no take 2 for a first start. To dark and short, but it's proof it's alive.

https://youtu.be/sGn_HEXjngg

[wouter1303]

Sounds very good

[Blizzard]

It sounds better in real life than on video. For some reason my camera mic. does not pick up the exhaust and induction noise but you can hear the ticking from the valve train very clear on video.

For the first start and cam brake in it ran very rich 11 12 on the AEM AFR gauge

I started with 55 Idle jets. And 1,5 turns on the Idle mixture screws. For the cam break in I only synchronised the carbs and let it run at 2000 rpm. for 20 minutes. Next time I will start testing different jets and tune the carburators. They ran surprisingly well straight out of the box.