need help.surface rust temp. spot repainting.

[Brother Mist]

Hello,
I have a few spots on my '59's roof and doors where the paint is peeling off down to bare metal, yup a poor re-painting job by previous owner. These spots are starting to get surface rust.

I can not afford to have my car sent to a body shop for body and paint work right now, but I want to get on top of these few spots before they get worse. A temporary fix till I can get it done by a pro.

I dont have a garage to use for a temp. paint booth, so I am looking for a spray can fix for now. I know I could go to the local auto parts store and get some regular old primer and paint... but is there a better alternative?

I know it will not look very good, but I'd rather stop the rust now and have a bad paint job then let it go till I can get it done correctly and have major problems to pay for.

Thank you for the help,
Brother Mist.

[Bill K.]

Rust Encapsulator

Find an automotive paint supply shop that will mix you a rattle can of car paint close to your car color. With clear coat it will look pretty good.

[rustbucket]

I second the recommendation for rust encapsulator. I've used it extensively all over my 72. Brush or spray it leaves a nice matte black finish. Comes in colors too. And unlike POR-15, it can be used as a primer (ie. you can paint over it fairly easily.

[Brother Mist]

Thanks guys! I am thinking I will strip to bare metal, treat the rust, and lay down some primer.

Going this route, should I still use the Rust Encapsulator as a primer?

I am thinking about picking up a gun and compressor and shooting on some epoxy primer and a top coat/clearcoat, as I now have a place to use thats already set up for painting! I just gotta supply my own paint gun and air supply.

Starting a new thread about HVLP systems.

[Bill K.]

If you're going to shoot epoxy, I'd skip the rust encapsulator as long as you have the rust sandblasted. For a crappy paint job, getting it down to bare metal with a quality blast job is the way to go. Don't let just anyone blast the body as they can warp panels. Get referances and talk to the guy doing the blasting to remind him how important it is to take it easy. Epoxy sealers are the way to go after blasting, then high build primer followed by color/clear.

I had my body sand blasted and then epoxy primered. For my chassis, I had it sand blasted and then I brushed on rust encapsulator. For my chassis and suspension, I used rust encapsulator as a primer and then top coated with Eastwoods Chassis Black (all aerosol or brush on). For a complete restoration, a few cans of rust encapsulator and chassis black came in very handy.

[oasis]

Once all that prep work is done, you can get paint from PaintScratch.com to match what you have (assuming the color is/was a standard offering). I liked what they sent to me for my "touch-ups."

[Brother Mist]

Originally Posted by Bill K.

If you're going to shoot epoxy, I'd skip the rust encapsulator as long as you have the rust sandblasted. For a crappy paint job, getting it down to bare metal with a quality blast job is the way to go.

Is sand/media blasting a "must" ? I am planning to chemicaly strip the paint, where I can, and use good old "elbow grease" where the stripper wont work.

I would rather not pay to have it blasted... my luck is that even at a good shop I'd get the "man, we've never had that happen before!" result.

I am planning to strip chemicaly then sand any rust down, then treat rust area with Eastwood "Super Plus Oxisolv Rust Remover"

What do you think?