Let There Be Brakes!!!

[Panelfantastic]

So lay out the design plan... reverse mount? you gonna hang'em? or try to adapt to a floor mount? resevoirs inside or outside?
I've seen some really cool pics of race cars done both ways. Gonna be sooo cool!


Jeff-

[volkdent]

Hang reverse mount. I'm going to fab up a bracket that attaches to stock points and I'll have to drill a couple more. Remote reservoirs under the hood. Brake bias bar with remote adjustment for now, and if I need it an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear. These pedals are the shortest ones they have with a 5.1/1 ratio. I asked Wilwood and they said for our little cars that ratio should be fine, and it gives me a little more space for pedal travel. I really don't know if those pedals with fit until I get them there, but they are just over 10" long at their longest, so I think that should fit under the steering column. We'll see!


What about T's for the system, should I just use the stock T's or is there something else I should look at?

Jason

[Panelfantastic]

The only thing I've ever seen with hard lines are those brass or aluminum block style... pick up a Street Rodder mag at the newstand, there are several companies listed that do nothing but brake hardware.
I'm in the process of upgrading a few things on the bus myself. Nothing as glamourus as your stuff, changing over to dual circuit M/C and adding a bias valve... are you planning to use the knob style or lever?


Jeff-

[volkdent]

Originally Posted by Panelfantastic

... are you planning to use the knob style or lever?


Jeff-

That's a little personal isn't it? I think knob, from what I understand it's infinitely adjustable while the lever has detents, but I could be wrong. According to the Wilwood guys, I should only get the proportioning valve if the bias bar isn't enough adjustment.

What sort of ends do those steel lines need anyway? I heard SS lines have to use some special pressed end or something. I havn't had any experience with brake system construction, just OEM type replacement.

Jason

[Panelfantastic]

Educate me a little... bias bar means you have independent cylinder and resevoir for the front and rear and the bar limits pressure on one or the other?
Pressed end? Not sure about that either. They do have a specific flare (degree amount) on the ends but that's all I was aware of...
It would be really cool looking if you could use braided everywhere but of course that's a big no-no and a wee bit pricey.



Jeff-

[bean_8044]

you can buy a good flaring/bending tool for less than $100 from most places

[volkdent]

Originally Posted by Panelfantastic

Educate me a little... bias bar means you have independent cylinder and resevoir for the front and rear and the bar limits pressure on one or the other?

Jeff-

Yeah, there's a bar that runs between the front and rear master cylinders. On the bar is the sliding linkage. You can get a remote adjuster that is a knob that when twisted, will pull or push the linkage along the bar. It adjusts the pressure that each master cylinder sees.

Hopefully, if I select the right master cylinders, I won't need to get the proportioning valve, and just the balance bar will be enough to dial it in.

"you can buy a good flaring/bending tool for less than $100 from most places"

I've got a couple of benders already, but I don't have a flaring tool. I've also heard there are specific flares for specific situation ie the angles, so I'm going to have to do a little research before I can get it done.

Jason