Blizzard's rolling rebuild of a 1303 1975

[owdlvr]

More info on the exhaust, or a link?

Car looks excellent!

[Blizzard]

Link to his contact info.

http://www.german-performance-parts....ontact&lang=NL

Link to the exhaust on the German Performance Parts site.

http://www.german-performance-parts....id=962&lang=NL

[Blizzard]

And the exhaust under the new 2056cc Type4 is a CSP Python for type4 in a beetle.

Link

"Python Exhaust System Type-4 :: Custom & Speed Parts (CSP)" https://www.csp-shop.com/en/brand-sh...che=1626797627

[Blizzard]

Am I crazy or what. Removing a perfectly good running engine after just 700Km.





Just because I want to know how the 2056cc performs NOW, I can not wait as long as it takes to finish the black super to hear and feel this engine.

I will install the 2056cc. on thursday and hopefuly have it running in the red super at the end of the day.

[Blizzard]

This photo was taken at 12.20

Ready for the start, and,.....GO.


Liftoff at 12.35


And ready to start the engine at 17.58


MSD coil mounted on 1" spacers to clear hoses and the throttle linkage.


It runs perfect at Idle up to 2500 rpm but I have to adjust the acceleration pumps and put the right size jets in the carburetors.
I drove 1/2 a mile for the first time at 18.00

That was the goal for today and I am very happy it finaly runs and drives.

Next thing to do is tune the carburators and put some miles on the thing with a big smile on my face

[Blizzard]

Small update on why I did'nt already post something about driving with the new 2056cc. motor. To work on the carburator jetting the motor has to be warm, and that is a problem at the moment.

It has oil pressure problems when the oil gets warmer / thinner. The oil pressure is good when the engine is cold, 2 bar at Idle and 4,5 bar when revving the engine.
I suspect the problem is in the loose fitment of the oil pump in the crankcase and / or the O-ring that seals the oil pickup tube in the crankcase.

I tested this with a warm engine and the front of the car high up in the air on jack stands. The rear of the engine now has a high oil level with both the O-ring and the oil pump submerged in oil. The oil pressure does not drop during this test.

I live in the netherlands which is very flat, so constantly driving uphill to keep oil pressure is not an option for me.

I used a new O-ring from the victor reinz gasket set on a like-new oil pickuptube without any extra sealant.
On the Bug Me DVD Jake Raby uses Permatex aviation form-a-gasket on the O-ring. When I watched this I thought it was overkill. Well probably not as it turned out in my (crank)case.

To try and fix the problem I now used 3 different oil pumps, 2 original Type-4 pumps with new O-ring and a modified Type-1 26mm pump. All 3 have a loose fitment in the crankcase. The Type-1 pump even slides in with the crankcase nuts surrounding the pump torqued at 20Nm.
And the pressure keeps dropping when hot. It still has oil pressure but only 1 bar. The short term plan is to see if the problem can be fixed with an O-ringed oil pump.
If the oil pressure keeps dropping when the oil is getting up to temperature, I have to spit the case to see if the 80 cent O-ring around the oil pickup tube is the problem.

Not looking forward to that.

Everything else on the engine performs perfectly and it has done 100 kilometers over short trips. Trips short enough to not have the oil pressure problem.

[Blizzard]

CAD (Cardboard And Duct tape) design number two. It is now a 2-piece design to have the sheet metal also seal behind the Crankshaft Pulley.
This is a temporary version out of thin alu. sheet. Final version will be out of thicker aluminium or steel.